Peak(s):  Longs Peak  -  14,255 feet
Date Posted:  09/19/2009
Date Climbed:   09/19/2009
Author:  randalmartin
 Tour de Longs (Loft up, Keyhole down)   

Climbed Longs Peak today ascending by Loft route and descending by Keyhole route. What an epic day for me. The Loft route provided my first exposure to sustained class 3 climbing. My 45yr old body is feeling it tonight, but what a great feeling of reward.

We started at 6:30am and were on the summit at 11:30am. The route had ice right at the point where you exit the Loft coulier to the left and so the ice was avoidable. Otherwise the Technical status that has been stamped on Longs Peak by the RMNP really didn't materialize. However, looking at the forecast for Monday it doesn't look like there is much time left for this route.

The weather today was spectacular. Clouds didn't build significantly until around 3pm.

A view of Longs Peak and the full Loft Coulier. Note the large snow patch near the top of the Loft Coulier. Following the route description you will exit the coulier well before you reach the snow.


Near Chasm lake the Aspens are in full color


Taken from about 2/3 of the way up the Loft Coulier.


This is a picture of part of the exit ramp to the left that you want to take when exiting the Loft coulier before a steeper section starts.


The Loft (above the Loft coulier)


A particularly challenging downclimb section near Clarks Arrow. This is a section that Loft route description describes as having some class 4 moves. Some parts were difficult to get a feel for whether to face in or out.


A view inside Keplinger coulier viewing the corner you come around. Certainly you get a sense of some exposure here.


Climbing up towards the Homestretch




Summit shot


Had to stop in and check out the little hut below the Keyhole.


Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Comments or Questions

Well done!
09/20/2009 20:58
I did that route last year - looks like you guys had some bone-dry killer conditions.


09/21/2009 03:31
I did this route earlier this year. I always stop in at the ”hut” (Agnes Vail Shelter) for a tall non-fat with-whip white mocha at the Starbucks there. They were there weren‘t they?


11/16/2009 16:31
How‘d u get a picture of my girlfriend in there?

Just kidding - that was a fun climb!



Our next climb
01/29/2010 22:25
Having done standard Keyhole up/down, I‘m looking forward to this new way to go. Thanks for the report and great photos.

~~Freezing in Iowa~~


07/29/2010 22:06
Nice Climb. But Dude, how did you keep that white shirt so clean?!?!?


07/29/2010 22:10
Yeah, that white shirt is my favorite climb shirt. The white keeps the sun from being too hot. As for keeping it so clean, now that takes skill

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