Taken from 14er Quandary Peak,
1 shows the upper portions of this route. From the trailhead, pass a gate and follow the road up to the left. After 0.5 mile, leave the road on a signed trail -
2. Continue into the forest, over small log bridges and across a boulder field -
3. Near 11,600', stay right (
4) and continue up a rocky hill and to an unnamed lake, at 12,000' -
5.
Walk around the right side of the lake and follow the trail up a rocky slope -
6. Continue to 12,400', just south of a rib which runs west-to-east in the basin below Fletcher Mountain and Atlantic Peak. Enter the upper basin and follow the faint trial west toward Atlantic Peak -
7. Just north of a small lake (12,555'), turn right and continue north -
8. Work your way across 1/2 mile of rough talus to reach the base of a slope/headwall, at the northwest end of the basin -
9 and
10. This headwall is the crux of the route.
Look for the easiest section in the center and ascend the loose terrain -
11. When snow-covered, an axe and crampons are recommended. Near the top, angle left and gain easier terrain at 13,200' -
12. Hike northwest to reach the ridge connecting Atlantic and Pacific Peaks -
13. Angle slightly right of the saddle and ascend to the ridge crest -
14. Hike north along the ridge, bypass a small point near 13,500' (
15) and continue up Pacific's south ridge (
16,
17 and
18) to reach the summit.
If you'd like to add Atlantic Peak on your ascent or descent, leave this route near 13,400' and hike south to reach Atlantic -
13. Gaining Atlantic and returning to this route adds about 0.75 mile. Refer to
Atlantic Peak's Northeast Slope route for more information and photos of the upper route.
(WINTER) HOLD ON! If you don't have much high-elevation, winter climbing experience, be careful in your planning and take a partner. All 14er routes are more difficult and more dangerous in winter.
