Taken from Castle Peak's northeast ridge,
1 shows the Conundrum Couloir. From the 2WD trailhead, drive up FR 102 where you'll find marked camping spots along the first 1.25 miles. Near 10,200' and 1.3 miles up the road, reach a creek crossing which has a footbridge. If the road is open/clear beyond this point and you have a 4WD vehicle, you can drive higher. Low-clearance vehicles should NOT attempt this crossing, especially in early summer when the water is high. If you plan on driving across, it's best to walk over the footbridge first to see what you're up against. Cross Castle Creek (
2) and continue nearly 2 miles to the Pearl Pass road junction. Stay right and continue up into Montezuma Basin -
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4 and
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From the end of the road at 12,800', ascend a bit higher to see a steep slope (headwall) that has snow through much of the year -
6. The headwall blocks easy access to the upper basin. Hike southwest to the right side of the headwall and begin climbing -
7 and
8. Near 13,300', enter the large, upper basin where you can seen Castle Peak, to the south -
9. For Conundrum Couloir, stay right in this area and begin to angle west to reach the base of the couloir -
10 and
11. You can see to the top and from this point, it's roughly 500' of elevation to reach the top of the couloir. With crampons, axe and a helmet on your head, begin climbing -
12. Near 13,800', the couloir begins to narrow (
13) before a "choke" at 13,850' -
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15 and
16. This section is the crux of the route and has an angle of approximately 47 degrees. Above the choke, you're not far from the top but you may notice a large cornice looming above. Pick your line and continue toward the top -
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18 and
19. If there's a cornice, you'll likely have to sneak around the right side to find the easiest exit. When you're out of the couloir, turn right and hike to the top -
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21.