WARNING: Once the snow has melted out of the gully used in this route, consider using the Northwest Ridge route instead. The ridge is steeper, more exposed and requires plenty of Class 3 scrambling but it's much more stable. However, if you are freaked out by exposure or don't think you're up to scrambling on steeper rock, stick to this route...
From the parking area, take the Lily Lake trail south through the trees and down to a large meadow -
1. Walk 1 mile to a trail junction where the Lily Lake trail turns right -
2. Your route doesn't go to Lily Lake so continue straight on the main, unmarked trail. Hike another 100 yards, cross the river
(
3) and continue through the trees as you parallel the river. Approximately 0.25 mile after the river crossing, the trail begins to climb left (southeast) through the trees and away from the river -
4. Near 10,800', a boulder field
is off to the left as you hike up through the trees.
It's time to gain some ground. Starting on the right side of the boulder field, hike approx. 600 feet up through the forest to reach a gully, near 11,400'. Exit the trees and continue along the left side of the gully (
5) and near 11,600', cross the gully and continue southwest back into the trees. Hike south up a hillside and finally reach tree line on the crest of a small ridge, near 12,000'. From this vantage point, you can finally see the summit. Your next task is to cross a high basin which is just west of Iron Nipple (13,500') -
6. Drop a bit and follow the trail southeast across easy terrain. On the east side of the basin, ascend to a flat area at 12,200' (
7) and follow a small ridge (
8) to a 13,000-foot crest
-
9. Continue east through a boulder field and onto the 13,150-foot saddle
between Iron Nipple and Mt. Lindsey -
10.
Lindsey's rugged north face is ahead and you can see the crux of the route - a steep gully just left of the northwest ridge -
11 and
12. Hike southeast along the ridge and near 13,200', the trail turns east and starts across the face. Continue to the base of the gully
-
13. The route from here is semi-steep, loose and more difficult. Hike up the gully and try not to get the rocks moving. When possible, use the more stable rock along the upper edge of the gully. Near the top of the gully (~13,600'), there are some narrow areas where some easy Class 3 moves might be necessary unless it is filled with snow -
14. At the top of the gully, pass through a small notch (
15) and traverse east across several more shallow gullies as you gradually gain elevation -
16. If you take your time, you should be able to find some cairns and trail segments. Above 13,800', the route remains steep (
17 and
18) until you hit Lindsey's summit ridge, near 14,000' -
19. Hike southeast for nearly 0.2 to reach the summit
-
20,
21 and
22.
Northwest Gully
(WINTER) HOLD ON! If you don't have much high-elevation, winter climbing experience, be careful in your planning and take a partner. All 14er routes are more difficult and more dangerous in winter.
