First, follow the Mt. Lindsey - North Face Route
to the 13,150-foot saddle between Iron Nipple and Mt. Lindsey. From the saddle, the northwest ridge is in full view and may look intimidating to some. More than 1/2 way up the ridge a crux wall makes this route more difficult than the standard, north face route - 1
. Finding a Class 3 line around the crux is possible but many climbers simply take a direct, Class 4 line up the brief pitch.
Hike southeast along the ridge on a small trail and near 13,200', where the trail turns east toward the north face, stay right and continue up the northwest ridge - 3
. As you climb higher, the terrain becomes more rugged and requires some Class 3 scrambling, especially on the ridge crest - 4
. As you scramble toward the crux wall ( 5
), it's clear that the route is becoming more serious. Scramble across a steep area below the ridge crest, down to a notch and up to the base of the crux wall. 6
were taken in this area and show some of the rugged terrain features.
is a head-on view of the crux wall, showing several options. One way to keep the difficulty at (exposed) Class 3 is to bypass the wall on the left side. If you choose this option, regain the ridge right after the crux wall to avoid loose terrain. If you're comfortable with brief Class 4 climbing, the best option may be just left of the large, vertical crack in the center of the wall - 9
. Carefully pick your line and regain the ridge on easier terrain - 10
Above the crux, continue up the ridge - 11
. As you ascend, the standard route is directly below, so be careful not to tumble rocks off the ridge - 13
. Continue to the 14,000-foot false summit on the northwest end of the summit ridge - 14
. Hike southeast for nearly 0.2 to reach the summit - 15
. Taken from back at the 13,150-foot saddle, 16
is another look at the ridge.