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North Eolus
standard South Ridge
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Difficulty:
 Class 3 
Risk Factors:Exposure: Considerable
Rockfall Potential: Moderate  
Route-Finding: Moderate  
Commitment: Moderate  
 
Trailhead:Needleton
Start:13,850 feet
Summit:14,039 feet
Total Gain:200' additional when climbing with Mt.Eolus
3,000' starting at Chicago Basin
6,000' starting at Needleton
RT Length:0.20 miles additional when climbing with Mt. Eolus
16.75 miles as a single peak
Duration:User Climb Times
Author:BillMiddlebrook
Updated:9/2019
Weather:NOAA Forecast
Conditions:21 reports
Cell Signal:5 reports
Sheriff:La Plata: 970-247-1157
Forest:San Juan
Wilderness:Weminuche
Quad. Maps:Log In to View
Camping:On Google Maps
Eats:On Google Maps
Downloads:Log In to Download
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Trailhead

Drive to Durango and follow signs to the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. It's near McDonald's and has a large parking area nearby. Buy a ticket for the train that stops at Needleton and ride the train 2.5 hours (~30 miles) to the Needleton stop. The train will drop you off next to a suspension bridge that crosses the Animas River. From here, it's a 6 mile hike to reach Chicago Basin. Note: you can also take the train from Silverton and be dropped off at Needleton.

Route

Taken from Windom Peak, 1 shows the standard routes up Mt. Eolus and North Eolus. To reach North Eolus, follow the Mt. Eolus - Northeast Ridge Route to the connecting ridge between Eolus and North Eolus - 2. Scramble up to the ridge . If you're climbing Eolus first, cross the Catwalk, summit Eolus and return to the notch in the connecting ridge - 3 and 4.

Scramble up the North Eolus' south ridge on grippy rock - 5 and 6. This is a very short scramble. As you approach the summit, the pitch increases but the difficulty does not exceed Class 3. In fact, it's pretty easy Class 3. Once on the summit you'll have excellent views of Eolus, Sunlight and Windom - 8 and 9.

Notes

IMPORTANT: This route enters the Weminuche Wilderness area. Wilderness areas have special regulations and restrictions for party size, dispersed camping, campfires, etc. Also, dog owners should read the wilderness information carefully because some wilderness areas prohibit dogs to be off-leash and/or limit how close dogs can be to lakes and streams. If you have questions about the wilderness area, please contact a U.S. Forest Service office for the National Forest(s) listed above.
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9
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