| Difficulty: | Difficult Class 2 Snow Steepness: Moderate Ski/Board: Advanced, D6 / R3 / II |
| Risk Factors: | Exposure: Considerable Rockfall Potential: Moderate Route-Finding: Considerable Commitment: Moderate |
| Trailhead: | Kite Lake |
| Start: | 12,000 feet |
| Summit: | 14,148 feet |
| Total Gain: | 2,150 feet |
| RT Length: | 2.50 miles |
| USGS Quad.: | Climax |
| County Sheriff: | Park: 719-836-2494 |
| National Forest: | Pike |
| Author: | BillMiddlebrook |
| Last Updated: | 3/2019 |
Mt. Democrat
South Slope
South Slope
Climbing mountains is dangerous! Please read the Mountaineering Safety Page and make sure you have a map+compass and can use them effectively. A GPS or cell phone can be very helpful with navigation but you should still be able to use a map+compass in case your device stops working.
(WINTER) HOLD ON! If you don't have much high-elevation, winter climbing experience, be careful in your planning and take a partner. All 14er routes are more difficult and more dangerous in winter.
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Trailhead
Take Colorado 9 to Alma. In the middle of town and on the west side of the road, look for a small sign for the road to Kite Lake. It's across the road from the "Caniglia Real Estate" building. Turn here and drive a bit through a residential area. Continue 6 miles to Kite Lake. The last mile of this road can be a bit more rough, but a good-clearance 2WD should still be able to make it when the road is dry. There are restrooms and some camping spots at the trailhead. You must pay a $5 fee to park/camp at Kite Lake. If you park below, walk up the road to Kite Lake.
Route
#1 and #2 show Mt. Democrat from the Kite Lake road and #3 is a different angle, from Mt. Buckskin. In these photos, notice the distinct line of rock outcroppings on Democrat's south slope. They form a set of chutes which are used on this route. From the trailhead, begin hiking northwest toward a small basin, left of Democrat's southeast slope - #4. Once in the small basin (12,500'), continue west to its west end and ascend 200+ feet to reach easier terrain, just above and northwest of Lake Emma - #6 and #7.
Now above 12,800', continue northwest toward the chutes and rock outcroppings in the center of the south slope - #8, #9 and #10. Angle up to the right and begin climbing steeper terrain below the chutes. Angle right up steeper terrain and enter the first chute OR continue left to pick a different one. This description uses the first chute. Climb the chute (#10 and #11) and pass through the rock outcroppings, near 13,400' - #12 and #13. Now on easier ground, hike north/northwest up the upper slope to reach the summit - #14, #15 and #16. Descend via the same route or use the Mt. Democrat - East Slopes (standard) route.
Now above 12,800', continue northwest toward the chutes and rock outcroppings in the center of the south slope - #8, #9 and #10. Angle up to the right and begin climbing steeper terrain below the chutes. Angle right up steeper terrain and enter the first chute OR continue left to pick a different one. This description uses the first chute. Climb the chute (#10 and #11) and pass through the rock outcroppings, near 13,400' - #12 and #13. Now on easier ground, hike north/northwest up the upper slope to reach the summit - #14, #15 and #16. Descend via the same route or use the Mt. Democrat - East Slopes (standard) route.
Skiing?
Notes
The route is only recommended with stable, spring snow conditions and axe+crampons are recommended.
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