Ideal conditions for the full couloir as a snow climb is over this season. It probably ended two weeks ago.
Snow is still in excellent condition until the dogleg. There are two massive and very impressive cornices up until the dogleg. Once you cut left into the dogleg you are out of their worry.
Most of the dogleg is now rotted snow, ice, and rock.
For the ice climbers out there it is now an ice climb. David Cooper says it's one of the best alpine ice routes anywhere in the State.
Agreeing with Cooper, if I were an ice climber this would definitely be on my to do list.
I can see why Roach says this couloir is the finest snow climb in the Tenmile-Mosquito Range.
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