"Sand Dunes Couloir" - visible from the sand dunes (slightly zig-zags through the cliffs).
~11.5 mi, 6K' gain
No snowshoes needed. Continuous ski available from the summit until about 11,500'.
Parked at the Sand Ramp TH after the first stream crossing on Medano Primitive Rd. Followed the trail ~1 mi and hooked a right up the Little Medano drainage (sand slog). Took a left after one longer ridge and two smaller ridges. Bushwacked up the drainage (tree and talus hopping, taking a main left fork in an incised channel - one 4th class short waterfall section) until we were in the southern basin. Climbed the steeper, ~1,300', SW-facing couloir through the cliff bands up to Herard's SE sub-point. Slightly maze-y and varied between 35-45 with spicier options. Glissaded the couloir due S from the summit (25-40 deg) after slogging to and from Medano (one interesting cornice section). Those are the two premier couloirs from the south - the rest are either low angle or short.
The standard route looked snowy above 11k'. No idea.
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