Near Miss on Gladstone Peak

[mattpayne11]

Hi guys,

Thought I'd share some video footage I got on my GoPro this past weekend while climbing Gladstone Peak. My partner was about 10-15 feet higher than I and when she took a step a huge boulder came sliding down towards me. Fortunately we have climbed a lot together and communicate well and I was paying attention during her ascent on this section so that I had time to side step and avoid tragedy.

Not sure what I would do differently next time except to ensure that I was a little less in line with her above me. It was a pretty scary situation that only lasted seconds. You could see that if I did not have time to dodge or was not paying attention that it could have been fatal. The near miss is about 45 seconds in if you want to skip ahead.

Here is the video: https://youtu.be/nEqFelFRu0M

[Jay521]

Wow...... Good thing the two of you are so in synch...

[scottaskinger]

"That got my nipples going!"

Glad that you both are ok.

[RyGuy]

Certainly a good reminder of why good communication and paying full attention to your surroundings is critical on steeper peaks.

I did Gladstone as a full snow climb in part due to the concerns about rockfall potential. If I climb it again, certainly doing it as a snow climb again!

-Ryan

[boudreaux]

I think the best thing you actually did was following behind 10' to 15'. If you had been directly behind her, then you would have been in trouble. Having that gap was what gave you the time to react even though the rock slid down the fall line and somewhat away from you. A good reminder not to follow too closely. Sorta like driving a car and tailgating, you don't have time to react! You never know what will happen when you traverse through some talus. Letting your partner get through a potentially tough section is a good idea before you proceed. Looks like you already know this and practice it well! I hope your friend wasn't too shaken up after that!

[Jon Frohlich]

Gladstone is the peak that I think had my nerves most shot afterwards. I did not like most of that ridge. Too many things that can slide and fall with or without human intervention. Although, I think I've done too many loose peaks lately because the video had me thinking "meh, that isn't so bad, what's the big deal?". Maybe I need to go find some more solid things to climb and adjust my standards back to a safer reality.

[boudreaux]

Gladstone is the peak that I think had my nerves most shot afterwards. I did not like most of that ridge. Too many things that can slide and fall with or without human intervention. Although, I think I've done too many loose peaks lately because the video had me thinking "meh, that isn't so bad, what's the big deal?". Maybe I need to go find some more solid things to climb and adjust my standards back to a safer reality.

Ya know, I was thinking the same thing, maybe I have become used to such things too! Good point!

[rob runkle]

That is some nasty crumbly stuff. Yikes! Wonder it stays up there at all.

[SkaredShtles]

What a nightmare of choss that is.

[HULKHIKEGOOD]

Made me jump out of my seat!!! Glad you guys are ok!

[mattpayne11]

Gladstone is the peak that I think had my nerves most shot afterwards. I did not like most of that ridge. Too many things that can slide and fall with or without human intervention. Although, I think I've done too many loose peaks lately because the video had me thinking "meh, that isn't so bad, what's the big deal?". Maybe I need to go find some more solid things to climb and adjust my standards back to a safer reality.

Yeah, it was definitely a nerve burner. I did not feel comfortable most of the way up. Surprisingly, the way down felt more stable, which I am not used to at all.

[14erFred]

Glad you and your partners came out OK, Matt. And thanks for the valuable reminder. The optimal distance between climbers is a bit like the distance between cars on the highway -- but the former increases as a function of the looseness of the terrain, whereas the latter increases as a function of velocity. Fortunately, you were alert and focused on your surroundings. Thanks for sharing this hair-raising video.