Extreme Temps and Snow Depths - Dec to Feb...

[SchralpTheGnar]

I did an attempt of Mount Columbia as an overnight via Three Elk Creek, the temperature was -30 degrees and we encountered winds of 40-50 mph, we were a team of 4 and backpacked somewhere about halfway up the route just below treeline. We woke up the next morning, 2 of the 4 decided not to even attempt the peak but my brother and I headed out. We climbed about 500 vertical feet, after eating all the food we had just to stay warm, we decided to turn around. We were cold, but it wasn't too terrible actually.

I also did Bierdstat and the temperature was -35 with 60mph winds, we did that as a full moon climb and it was too date without a doubt the most heinous conditions I've ever been out in. Snow depths aren't usually too deep but that doesn't mean the trailbreaking 2-3' of sugar snow isn't exhausting.

The best thing to do is to not attempt the peaks during the times of extreme cold, which are usually just 2-4 weeks total during the winter. Trailbreaking can be avoided by just waiting for people to post TR's here and then following their "trench" on the route. Now that winter climbing the 14ers is popular it's actually pretty easy when you have a trail broken and good weather.

[druid2112]

+1 on the extra mittens/gloves. I too have had one fly off and come to rest (conveniently) within a foot or too of a cornice lip.

I now have mittens with straps and a coat with a loop on the end of each sleeve so I get to be like one of those kids with the mittens with the long string that runs up one arm and down the other. Well worth it though.

Oh, and don't count on getting many pictures. It takes waaaaaaay longer to get your fingers back up to warm than the 15 secs of exposure that it takes to get them painfully cold.

[Somewhat of a Prick]

+1 on the extra mittens/gloves. I too have had one fly off and come to rest (conveniently) within a foot or too of a cornice lip.

I now have mittens with straps and a coat with a loop on the end of each sleeve so I get to be like one of those kids with the mittens with the long string that runs up one arm and down the other. Well worth it though.

Oh, and don't count on getting many pictures. It takes waaaaaaay longer to get your fingers back up to warm than the 15 secs of exposure that it takes to get them painfully cold.

I keep thin layer bike gloves underneath my heavy duty winter gloves for just this reason. I can slip off one of the heavier gloves and use my camera without getting too cold.