Early winter mountaineering in NE US
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- JaredJohnson
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Early winter mountaineering in NE US
I'm in central CT for the next two weeks and I'm hoping to find a good adventure while I'm out here. I'm willing to drive pretty far if needed. I'm also interested in partners although it would likely have to be on a weekday.
I've previously done a couple of attempts on Washington's lion head route, one respectable but failed in harsh winter conditions and one successful in calendar winter but surprisingly acceptable conditions. And I did Franconia Ridge in winter as well. And I've done the winter 14ers on my checklist in varying conditions.
I've got an avy cert but I'm nervous about approaching an area that has less beta, Washington was an exception as there's abundant avy forecast information for that. And although there's a lot of information on a lot of mountains in New England, there isn't the abundance of route and conditions info that one can get on this site for CO peaks to decide what's worth attempting right now in terms of both conditions and epic-ness.
I was looking at Katahdin which looks pretty cool but I'd have to go with a guide service or rent winter camping gear because I didn't pack mine. I did bring all my winter day trip gear including spikes axe crampons, snowshoes and my AT kit. I'm an okay skier but very novice at BC so I have to be selective on routes with a mandatory ski descent, they're really more floatation and mellow deproach right now but I'm learning.i was thinking perhaps an ascent of Huntington's but descending the standard route, although it's probably a long shot that Huntington's would be in this early
I've previously done a couple of attempts on Washington's lion head route, one respectable but failed in harsh winter conditions and one successful in calendar winter but surprisingly acceptable conditions. And I did Franconia Ridge in winter as well. And I've done the winter 14ers on my checklist in varying conditions.
I've got an avy cert but I'm nervous about approaching an area that has less beta, Washington was an exception as there's abundant avy forecast information for that. And although there's a lot of information on a lot of mountains in New England, there isn't the abundance of route and conditions info that one can get on this site for CO peaks to decide what's worth attempting right now in terms of both conditions and epic-ness.
I was looking at Katahdin which looks pretty cool but I'd have to go with a guide service or rent winter camping gear because I didn't pack mine. I did bring all my winter day trip gear including spikes axe crampons, snowshoes and my AT kit. I'm an okay skier but very novice at BC so I have to be selective on routes with a mandatory ski descent, they're really more floatation and mellow deproach right now but I'm learning.i was thinking perhaps an ascent of Huntington's but descending the standard route, although it's probably a long shot that Huntington's would be in this early
Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
Outside of the Presidential Range, there just isn't that much avy risk in the White Mountains. Huntington Ravine/Tucks are well-known and covered by the forecasts at Pinkham Notch, the other gulfs in that range also can have avy issues now and then. Even the Ammo Trail has had an avy near the trail a few times. But outside that, stay off the slide trails, and it really isn't an issue on the main trails. Note that this is for hiking/snowshoeing on hiking trails, ski descents obviously can get you into dangerous terrain quicker.
Katahdin will have avy risk - the Saddle Trail in particular (generally "closed" in winter due to this anyway). The ridge trails are usually fine minus the occasional cornice.
Katahdin will have avy risk - the Saddle Trail in particular (generally "closed" in winter due to this anyway). The ridge trails are usually fine minus the occasional cornice.
Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
I live in lower Westchester, so not that far from you. I just got back from NH yesterday. The Dacks and the Whites are your best bets. If I was in your shoes, I would try to summit Mt Washington in winter. If you are feeling up for an adventure, the Huntington Ravine route is a fun mixed alpine climb, but it may be more than you want to solo as I don't really know your experience.
Avy is much more straight forward out here, as the other poster mentioned, the areas that have risk are well forecasted.
Baxter State Park is FAR. I have yet to make it up there, even though I want to.
Mt Marcy looks very cool, around 16 miles for the NY State highpoint (I haven't done it).
My main goal in the NorthEast is Pinnacle Gully on Mt Washington - maybe one of these days
Avy is much more straight forward out here, as the other poster mentioned, the areas that have risk are well forecasted.
Baxter State Park is FAR. I have yet to make it up there, even though I want to.
Mt Marcy looks very cool, around 16 miles for the NY State highpoint (I haven't done it).
My main goal in the NorthEast is Pinnacle Gully on Mt Washington - maybe one of these days
You can touch the void, just don't fall into it.
I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
I fly a starship across the universe divide....and when I reach the other side...I'll find a place to rest my spirit if I can. Perhaps I may become a Mountain Man again.
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
Echoing the other responses, there's very little avy risk outside of Mt. Washington's cirques and certain trails in the Presidential range. The Mt. Washington Avalanche Center (https://www.mountwashingtonavalanchecenter.org/) has the best info and forecasting. We just got a dump of snow over the weekend so things are still settling up there this week.
Katahdin is my favorite mountain on the East Coast but it is very difficult to access in the winter. Aside from the drive, which is 5.5 hours from where I am in Boston, the park roads are closed in winter so one has to snowshoe or ski in from the park entrance. It's a mini expedition just to approach the mountain.
Your best bet would be to climb one of Tuckerman's couloirs. Left gully is moderately steep (~45 - 55 degrees) and a very fun mountaineering route to the top of the Lawn. You can choose to summit from there, ski down, or connect to the Lion's Head trail to descend. I'm not sure what conditions look like in Huntington Ravine right now, it may be too early to go solo. You can check with the guides at Northeast Mountaineering - the NEM bunkhouse is a few minutes down the road from Pinkham Notch. I've found that they're always helpful in sharing beta.
Best of luck!
Katahdin is my favorite mountain on the East Coast but it is very difficult to access in the winter. Aside from the drive, which is 5.5 hours from where I am in Boston, the park roads are closed in winter so one has to snowshoe or ski in from the park entrance. It's a mini expedition just to approach the mountain.
Your best bet would be to climb one of Tuckerman's couloirs. Left gully is moderately steep (~45 - 55 degrees) and a very fun mountaineering route to the top of the Lawn. You can choose to summit from there, ski down, or connect to the Lion's Head trail to descend. I'm not sure what conditions look like in Huntington Ravine right now, it may be too early to go solo. You can check with the guides at Northeast Mountaineering - the NEM bunkhouse is a few minutes down the road from Pinkham Notch. I've found that they're always helpful in sharing beta.
Best of luck!
- nyker
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
Adirondacks just got at least 27" of new snow in the last few days (at trailhead elevations) with more coming so with snowshoes there are plenty of winter climbs to do! Full coverage from parking lots/roads so for longer approaches you can ski in.
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
Yes, it is difficult to find consistent trail conditions but this might be a decent resource:
https://www.newenglandtrailconditions.com/nh/
Not sure when you're planning to go but obviously this Thurs, Fri, Sat would not be good
https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks ... casts/1603
Depending on what your looking for there are a lot of options in the White Mountains that are similar in difficulty to Franconia Ridge and some quite a bit more difficult
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... vine-trail
I have not done the Kings Ravine trail in the winter but it is one of the more difficult trails with some class 3 (maybe)
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... line-trail
Add in Mt Jefferson for a few more miles
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... arter-loop
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... wford-path
somewhat easier - likely to be busy
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... loop-trail
The high cannon has a fairly long ladder on the corner of a cliff that leans to one side that might be difficult in the winter. This would be more difficult than Franconia Ridge
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... ield-trail
easier
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... idge-trail
The slides on the Tripyramids are considered to be class 3
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... cock-trail
nice winter hike - well traveled, not as hard
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... pond-trail
easier except I've heard that there's a short difficult section between the Osceolas
Owls head might be a good one but its more than 17 miles
https://www.newenglandtrailconditions.com/nh/
Not sure when you're planning to go but obviously this Thurs, Fri, Sat would not be good
https://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks ... casts/1603
Depending on what your looking for there are a lot of options in the White Mountains that are similar in difficulty to Franconia Ridge and some quite a bit more difficult
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... vine-trail
I have not done the Kings Ravine trail in the winter but it is one of the more difficult trails with some class 3 (maybe)
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... line-trail
Add in Mt Jefferson for a few more miles
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... arter-loop
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... wford-path
somewhat easier - likely to be busy
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... loop-trail
The high cannon has a fairly long ladder on the corner of a cliff that leans to one side that might be difficult in the winter. This would be more difficult than Franconia Ridge
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... ield-trail
easier
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... idge-trail
The slides on the Tripyramids are considered to be class 3
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... cock-trail
nice winter hike - well traveled, not as hard
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/trail ... pond-trail
easier except I've heard that there's a short difficult section between the Osceolas
Owls head might be a good one but its more than 17 miles
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
Much closer to Connecticut is Mount Greylock in western Massachusetts. Have never hiked it so can only say that the area is rural and nice.
https://www.summitpost.org/mount-greylock/150465
https://www.summitpost.org/mount-greylock/150465
- nyker
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
If you opt to do something in NY, I'd not do it Fri-Mon on account of another storm and colder front moving in Thurs night late, but before and after that it will be warmer and drier, pick a day with little wind if doing anything exposed and snowshoes will be a must have.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
I’ll be doing Lafayette soon if the forecast in CO isn’t good next week.
I’d look into Algonquin/Wright in the Adirondack’s
I’d look into Algonquin/Wright in the Adirondack’s
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
The weather forecast for Friday on Lafayette predicts winds in excess of 80 MPH with heavy snow transitioning to heavy rain. Might not be the best day to go up there.
- JaredJohnson
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
Thanks for the all the suggestions! Just a quick note to set minds at ease, I'm shooting for next week rather than trying to contend with some possibly insane weather
- nyker
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Re: Early winter mountaineering in NE US
Good call. Winds currently are 30-70mph, horizontal sleet then, 2-6" more snow expected once it cools down later which will be on a bed of ice. Lot of downed trees around.