|Peak:||Jagged Mountain (13er)|
|Route:||North Face from Sunlight Lake|
|Date of Info:||07/19/2020|
We were camped a bit below Sunlight Lake, and took a trail towards the creek east of Jagged. The creek led into a series of granite swells split by grass slopes, of which we took the grass slope just east of the creek. Trying to ascend the creek or the grass to the west of it were just plain impossible. Our route contained some minor scrambling to the upper basin. Remember how you came up! It was a bit confusing on the way down. From the upper basin contour around snow and the boilerplate slabs to the west side of Jagged Couloir. You'll reach a gross, wet chimney-ish like feature, which is what we climbed up. I led this pitch and it felt about Class 5.6 in trail runners. Full 30 meters, I placed 4 pieces of gear along the way and used the rappel anchor as the belay anchor because there wasn't secure anchorage otherwise. We then unroped and scrambled along the couloir's edge on steep, exposed, and terribly loose kitty litter ledges and ramps to the second crux. This section between first and second cruxes was by far my least favorite just due to how insecure the entire thing felt. It wasn't difficult, just kind of scary. The second crux was a short chimney that sucked with a pack on and probably would have been better going up a set of steps to the right, followed by more kitty litter ledges to the third crux, which was a bit more of a straight forward alpine rock pitch with OK gear. This led to the notch where we went around to the south side of Jagged, where there was an exposed but easy step around on a ledge (beware, one rock about half the size of a torso rocked and was completely detached from everything else) to the final crux, the Class 4 chockstone chimney, which was easier than it looked, though physically strenuous. We then made an easy scramble to the summit.
Rappelling off the summit we slung a large block just southwest of the summit and rappelled to right near the notch, then made a second rappel over the third crux. Some down climbing on the kitty litter ledges followed, then a third rappel over the second crux, followed by the horrendous kitty litter ledges between cruxes one and two. Be extremely careful going down these, especially when wet. We made our fourth and final rappel over crux one, then went over to Jagged Pass and on to Peak Six. We left the climbing gear suspended off the ground using a cam in a horizontal crack so the marmots couldn't have their marmoty ways with our stuff. Our descent was a bit confusing, but you want to be east of the creek spilling out of Jagged's north bowl. If you're in the creek drainage itself or to the west you'll either find scary boulder caves you'd never get out of if you fell in, or a giant, impassible cliff, respectively.
Photos: 1 (Garrett M.) and 2) Approach terrain. 3 and 4) First pitch. I think we did a harder variation with the route as described in the Roach guidebook to the left. 5) Looking down the first pitch from the rappel anchor. 6) Some of the gross, loose ledges along the couloir. 7) Second crux taken on rappel. 8 ) Fourth crux, the Class 4 chimney near the summit. 9) Looking due west off the summit and down towards the first rappel station, which was missing when we were up there. We left cord and a quicklink behind. There's a bolted anchor that goes north directly off the summit and requires two ropes for the 165 foot rappel. (Photos 3-7 and 9 by Whiley H.)
NOTE: Since this was ascended a while ago and I'm just now getting back to internet, I've put today's date for visibility, since there hasn't otherwise been recent updates for the peak. I'll backdate this CR in a couple of days.
Photos (click for slideshow):