Mt. Princeton Trip Report 03/13/2018

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Mt. Princeton - 14,200 feet
Date Posted	03/13/2018
Modified	06/06/2018
Date Climbed	06/04/2016
Author	JQDivide

Grouse Canyon
Grouse Canyon Route for Mt. Princeton Pt 13,971 and the summit: Nov. 2016 Someone was asking about this route recently and that prompted me to do a TR. (A very late TR.) I hiked this route twice in 2016, so this is kind of a combo TR, but mostly just a route description and photos. I always appreciate non standard routes in the Sawatch Range. Most of the standards are up the east side with views of the Arkansas Valley. Granted that is beautiful, but after so many peaks, it is the same view. Exploring the Sawatch from the west is always a treat. This is a strenuous route: 5,000 feet in 3.5 miles on bad or nonexistent trail. A lot of gain in a short hike. The first time we hiked Grouse Canyon was in June 2016. The lower trail was so lush along the creek. It seemed more like something in the San Juans than the Sawatch. The morning dew on the bushes didn't quite soak our clothes, but we got wet. We had a group of five on the hike. Two of our crew had hiked Harvard the day before, and just didn't have the energy to power through the steep terrain. We also took a wrong turn in the aspen forest. Instead of turning right and heading up the gully, we crossed it, thinking it wasn't the correct gully. These two factors put us more than an hour behind by the time we reached the lower ridge. We also left the gully too soon, and went straight for the ridge on a game trail. Clouds were forming and we decided to turn back just after the Class 3 section. So close, but so far away. By the time we were back in the trees thunder shook the sky and dark storm clouds hid Antero. Glad we made the right choice, sad we had to turn back... but the rain washed any doubt away. We returned in November, a group of seven. With such a dry fall season, the trail was dry and clear. We had a different group and made much better time. This time we followed the gully until it faded into the grassy slope and seemed to be the better route option. The amount of time it took to get from the Class 3 section to the summit of Princeton was much longer than we expected. Which made us very happy that had we turned back in June. After the C3 follow the talus ridge to Pt. 13, 971 and from there it's another half a mile to the summit on more talus. Route The turn off for the TH is just after CO 162 road turns from pavement to dirt, about 10 miles from Hwy285. Take the right turn immediately after that and follow the road about a half mile to dirt track (that can be missed) on the right side. There is room for four to five vehicles depending how people park. Old Road Follow the old road and climb over a downed tree. There are a few cairns along the way. Make your way to the creek and uphill. Creek A usable but unserviced trail parallels the creek. The trail is unlevel, muddy, overgrown and has downed trees on it. As you move up into some aspens the creek gully widens and separates and the steepness levels out a bit. The trail kind of follows the right branch of the split. Aspen Forest Several downed trees here and there. But the view opens up a bit as the trail levels. Soon you'll pop out of the aspens in an area with a slope across the way. Gully near 10,300 The right turn for the gully is here. Immediately in the opening. In the spring and summer the trail to your right can be hidden by tall greenery. This is not the typical "steep & loose" gully on most 14ers. This is more of a drainage ditch with a dirt path. Follow the gully up through a mixed forest. Soon a boulder field will appear on your right. Keep working your way up to treeline and until it turns into a grassy slope. Up to your right you can make out the southern ridge, you destination. Follow the gully until it fades into the slope and becomes a patchwork of grass and rocks, don't turn uphill to early. Pick you best route up to the ridge. Lower Ridge Once on the ridge, turn left toward the summit which you can see in the distance. You can pick a side to hike, or stay ridge proper for some C2+ scrambling. Class 3 You'll come to a notch in the ridge where the Class 3 wall begins. Scramble up to the right side and go up and over. Or you can drop down in the notch and go left and take a Class 2+ route down and around before moving up. Helmet needed? Your call. Better to be safe. But as long as you give your climbing partners space, you should be fine. The C3 section is so short you can take turns to prevent rock fall from above. Upper Ridge & Pt 13,971 From here the route turns into talus as you make your way to Pt. 13,971 (still a bit away). We went up, over and around. From the Point it is still a half mile to summit, on more talus. You'll hit the summit and people will wonder where you came from. Times 0:00 TH 0:50 Gully 1:30 Boulder field 2:10 Treeline 3:20 Ridge 5:00 Pt 13,971 6:00 Summit (I feel one could easily knock off 30 to 60 minutes from our 6 hour time.) Lower trail, route along the creek: June Lower trail, route along the creek: June Lower trail, route along the creek: June Lower trail, route along the creek: June Lower creek trail: Nov Lower trail, route along the creek: June The turn for the gully is there hidden in the greenery just outside the trees. Near 10,300 Looking at the same spot, but from the trees in Nov. Trail goes right. Gully in the trees: Nov upper gully: Nov Upper gully, last trees: Nov. Grassy slope and rocks: June Grassy Slopes above gully: Nov Grassy slope and rocks: June On the lower ridge: June Ridge before C3: June Ridge before C3 C2+ on the ridge proper Looking down the lower ridge Ridge: June Class 3 wall: Nov Class 3 wall: June Class 3 wall: Nov Above the wall: Nov Above the wall: June Above the wall: Nov The ridge before Pt 13,871: Nov Pt. 13,971 from the ridge: Nov Pt 13,971 and the summit: Nov. 2016 Pt 13,971 from summit side: Nov Summit push: Nov Ridge to summit, from above: Nov Carl So... on this November hike, I hiked with four people I had never hiked with before, two that I had. (These two were on both Grouse Canyon trips.) One person had brought a small dog and was in tears on the summit, dreading having to go back down that route. One person was not feeling well, energy totally sapped. To our joy Carl summited from the standard route. Carl, our new friend, would be our savior. We asked him about getting a ride back to the other TH. He had a Suburban, we'd all fit. He said yes, but needed to wait on two friends who would summit soon. Told him great we'd meet him at the TH. A discussion was made, five of the seven would hike down the standard route and get a ride from Carl. Two would go back down Grouse Canyon. A bit of snow was on the standard trail in the rocky path, just enough to have to watch your step. Once on the road, the sun set and we made it down to the parking lot in the dark. We waited by the little building at the parking lot entrance, which was lit up a street light. We cracked open a small Black Box cab and waited on Carl. Here comes Carl in that roomy Suburban driving by... and by driving by, I mean by... as in bye bye. That ass left us standing there on the side of the road. We still talk about you Carl. I suggested I could hike down to Mt Princeton road and hitch hike to get one of the cars. Group didn't like that idea. So we called the taxi service in Salida. It wasn't the first time this guy had picked up hikers at some trailheads. And hour and $60 later we were back at the TH. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Grouse Canyon

Grouse Canyon Route for Mt. Princeton

Someone was asking about this route recently and that prompted me to do a TR. (A very late TR.) I hiked this route twice in 2016, so this is kind of a combo TR, but mostly just a route description and photos.

I always appreciate non standard routes in the Sawatch Range. Most of the standards are up the east side with views of the Arkansas Valley. Granted that is beautiful, but after so many peaks, it is the same view. Exploring the Sawatch from the west is always a treat.

This is a strenuous route: 5,000 feet in 3.5 miles on bad or nonexistent trail. A lot of gain in a short hike.

The first time we hiked Grouse Canyon was in June 2016. The lower trail was so lush along the creek. It seemed more like something in the San Juans than the Sawatch. The morning dew on the bushes didn't quite soak our clothes, but we got wet.

We had a group of five on the hike. Two of our crew had hiked Harvard the day before, and just didn't have the energy to power through the steep terrain. We also took a wrong turn in the aspen forest. Instead of turning right and heading up the gully, we crossed it, thinking it wasn't the correct gully. These two factors put us more than an hour behind by the time we reached the lower ridge. We also left the gully too soon, and went straight for the ridge on a game trail.

Clouds were forming and we decided to turn back just after the Class 3 section. So close, but so far away. By the time we were back in the trees thunder shook the sky and dark storm clouds hid Antero. Glad we made the right choice, sad we had to turn back... but the rain washed any doubt away.

We returned in November, a group of seven. With such a dry fall season, the trail was dry and clear. We had a different group and made much better time. This time we followed the gully until it faded into the grassy slope and seemed to be the better route option.

The amount of time it took to get from the Class 3 section to the summit of Princeton was much longer than we expected. Which made us very happy that had we turned back in June. After the C3 follow the talus ridge to Pt. 13, 971 and from there it's another half a mile to the summit on more talus.

Route
The turn off for the TH is just after CO 162 road turns from pavement to dirt, about 10 miles from Hwy285. Take the right turn immediately after that and follow the road about a half mile to dirt track (that can be missed) on the right side. There is room for four to five vehicles depending how people park.

Old Road
Follow the old road and climb over a downed tree. There are a few cairns along the way. Make your way to the creek and uphill.

Creek
A usable but unserviced trail parallels the creek. The trail is unlevel, muddy, overgrown and has downed trees on it. As you move up into some aspens the creek gully widens and separates and the steepness levels out a bit. The trail kind of follows the right branch of the split.

Aspen Forest
Several downed trees here and there. But the view opens up a bit as the trail levels. Soon you'll pop out of the aspens in an area with a slope across the way.

Gully near 10,300
The right turn for the gully is here. Immediately in the opening. In the spring and summer the trail to your right can be hidden by tall greenery. This is not the typical "steep & loose" gully on most 14ers. This is more of a drainage ditch with a dirt path. Follow the gully up through a mixed forest. Soon a boulder field will appear on your right. Keep working your way up to treeline and until it turns into a grassy slope. Up to your right you can make out the southern ridge, you destination. Follow the gully until it fades into the slope and becomes a patchwork of grass and rocks, don't turn uphill to early. Pick you best route up to the ridge.

Lower Ridge
Once on the ridge, turn left toward the summit which you can see in the distance. You can pick a side to hike, or stay ridge proper for some C2+ scrambling.

Class 3
You'll come to a notch in the ridge where the Class 3 wall begins. Scramble up to the right side and go up and over. Or you can drop down in the notch and go left and take a Class 2+ route down and around before moving up. Helmet needed? Your call. Better to be safe. But as long as you give your climbing partners space, you should be fine. The C3 section is so short you can take turns to prevent rock fall from above.

Upper Ridge & Pt 13,971
From here the route turns into talus as you make your way to Pt. 13,971 (still a bit away). We went up, over and around. From the Point it is still a half mile to summit, on more talus. You'll hit the summit and people will wonder where you came from.

Times
0:00 TH
0:50 Gully
1:30 Boulder field
2:10 Treeline
3:20 Ridge
5:00 Pt 13,971
6:00 Summit
(I feel one could easily knock off 30 to 60 minutes from our 6 hour time.)

Lower trail, route along the creek: June

The turn for the gully is there hidden in the greenery just outside the trees. Near 10,300

Looking at the same spot, but from the trees in Nov. Trail goes right.

Carl
So... on this November hike, I hiked with four people I had never hiked with before, two that I had. (These two were on both Grouse Canyon trips.) One person had brought a small dog and was in tears on the summit, dreading having to go back down that route. One person was not feeling well, energy totally sapped.

To our joy Carl summited from the standard route. Carl, our new friend, would be our savior. We asked him about getting a ride back to the other TH. He had a Suburban, we'd all fit. He said yes, but needed to wait on two friends who would summit soon. Told him great we'd meet him at the TH.

A discussion was made, five of the seven would hike down the standard route and get a ride from Carl. Two would go back down Grouse Canyon.

A bit of snow was on the standard trail in the rocky path, just enough to have to watch your step. Once on the road, the sun set and we made it down to the parking lot in the dark. We waited by the little building at the parking lot entrance, which was lit up a street light. We cracked open a small Black Box cab and waited on Carl.

Here comes Carl in that roomy Suburban driving by... and by driving by, I mean by... as in bye bye. That ass left us standing there on the side of the road. We still talk about you Carl.

I suggested I could hike down to Mt Princeton road and hitch hike to get one of the cars. Group didn't like that idea. So we called the taxi service in Salida. It wasn't the first time this guy had picked up hikers at some trailheads. And hour and $60 later we were back at the TH.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Jay521	Great route! 3/14/2018 7:23am I really enjoyed this TR. Like you, I love non-standard routes and I loved the comparison pics on this one. And Carl? Carl sounds like a real dick.....
Tornadoman	Carl! 3/15/2018 8:39am I wonder if he is reading this TR somewhere and laughing. Definitely not cool, what a jackass! This route looks interesting, Princeton isn't high on my repeat list, but this route does seem much more interesting than the standard.
PaulVee	GPS track? 3/19/2018 3:49pm Great trip report and thanks for posting. Have been very interested in this route as the standard seems less interesting. Had an acclimatization day last year and found the trailhead and did the 1st 1/4 mile. Was wondering if you had a GPS track of the route? I'd worry about missing that turn to the gully. Oh, yea, and Carl? wtf is up with that guy? As*hole!! Thanks again for posting!
MagnaMater	Timely TR - Thanks 3/20/2018 5:19pm So glad you posted this just now as my new husband and I were wondering about this route. We were just on our honeymoon at Mt. Princeton Hot Springs and weren't looking to climb a 14er, but perhaps just hiking up part of the standard Mt. Princeton route. I went on the 14er.com app and was looking for the various routes. Having only found info for the standard route, I noticed that there was trailhead, but no route, info for Grouse Canyon. Being curious about this route, we headed out to recon the area. Didn't realize it got steep so soon, we only hiked up along the creek to about .5 miles, and were wondering what the rest of the route was like, so thanks for posting the info/pics. I figured there would be a class 3 part and I was right. The trail had very little snow on the part we hiked and the creek was mostly running although there was a fair amount of ice on the creek rocks. Soon after starting from the TH, we saw a sign warning that this was a difficult and dangerous route, and one needed good route-finding skills...and also not to get cliffed out at Agnes Vaille Falls (BTW, that trail is closed). (I'd post the photo of the sign, but it looks like I need to upload it to a site somewhere and put in the HTML code.) We headed back down and went over to continue hiking on the Colorado Trail - more our speed at this point. But thanks for filling in the blanks for us! Maybe one day we'll do this route, but first we need to do the standard one.
PaulVee	Warning Sign 3/20/2018 9:19pm Hi MagnaMater ... I think this is the sign you are referring to:
JQDivide	stuff 3/21/2018 9:14am Jay, thanks Andrew, it's so much better than the standard road hike, an less crowded. Paul, I don't have a GPX track of the hike. The 'spot' to turn right to the gully, is obvious, the gully not so much. Once you pop out of the trees, it's the first real opening, just start looking to your right. Magna, glad I could fill in the blanks for you.
CaptainSuburbia	Ridge to unnamed 13626 12/16/2018 10:50am Hi, I know you hiked this awhile ago, but I was wondering if you had any pics of ridge from pt 13971 to unnamed 13626 besides the last pic which shows some of it. Thanks

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