Turner Peak is one of the easier thirteeners I've done. Or, well, it should have been, considering a start at 12,000 feet on Cottonwood Pass, basically no route finding whatsoever, and no technical ground at all. Being me, it took me three tries to climb this easy peak. In the same day. Yes, you read that right. Three tries in one day.

The first I started at 5:30am or so trying to beat a major storm system that was scheduled to hit around 9am (hence why I picked an easy peak, stupid weather still showed up early) and got turned into a popsicle by freezing rain. I went back to my car and slept for a few hours, getting a second try at about 11am during a lull in the storm. About 20 minutes in (wearing two jackets, ice climbing gloves, goggles, and full hardshells... in June) it began blasting sideways hail on me that was so dense I couldn't see more than 50 feet ahead of me, so I bailed again and, fed up, went into Buena Vista and got beer with Whiley, Marisa, and Garrett. Beer helped, as did the BBQed half chicken I ate. Thanks for your noble sacrifice.

We had a few hours left in the evening and didn't know what to do with it. I jokingly suggested that we climb Turner, and to my surprise everyone was stoked on the idea. What better thing to do than start climbing a thirteener at 7pm? Not much, I'll tell you what! Garrett had already done Turner and had a super secret route (OK, not really that secret) that would be quick and easy with what little daylight we had left. We drove most of the way to Cottonwood Pass (via Chaffee County Road 306) and parked at a large, paved pullout on the southern side of the road at 38.81445, 106.39680. From the parking area we crossed the road and entered the forest, going directly northeast.

The terrain naturally continued to funnel us northeast. The forest was in pretty good shape, and while steep it went by quickly and we soon found ourselves in an open area below Point 12,581, a twelver west of Turner. We could see Turner being lit up in gold by the setting sun. We'd have to move quickly to get our sunset summit.

We continued up a mix of speckled granite boulders and grass and over a small stream and some wet, marshy ground. There were some minor ups and downs in between us and treeline, which also came close to the bottom of Turner's west slopes.

The ascent up Turner from here consisted of three parts: first, a very steep and somewhat loose ascent through some small cliffs (completely non-technical, just steep); broad, open slopes which traverse to the summit block; and a Class 2 talus and boulder hop to the summit bump.

The first section was short but a fall would probably be difficult to control, so we were light on our feet. A couple hundred feet later we were on the open traverse, which, besides the hike from the road, was the longest part of the day.

This was also the easiest part of the day, being grassy and overall moderate in angle. The sun was beginning to hit the horizon as we climbed, and the maelstrom of the morning was merely an afterthought in the calming evening light.

The summit block was an easy jaunt; one could probably find some very minor scrambling if desired, but it's just a talus hop if the easiest line is taken.

The sun had set by the time we all reached the summit. Light exploded out of the western horizon and faded into soft hues in the east. The storm of the morning, which had risen black and fallen with a violent electrical fury, was put to bed by some of the prettiest skies I had ever seen. Turner, as fast and easy as it is, had given all it had. Views here on this unassuming thirteener hunched on the shoulder of the Continental Divide were simply beyond words.

We drank in the scenery, trying to leave at the last possible moment so we didn't miss the glory. But all good things must come to an end; first our journey, and soon this reliving of the journey. As the last oranges and yellows turned to purple and blue we scampered down the rocks on the summit. Headlamps went on heads; power went on headlamps. We carefully picked our way down the steep section as the last light faded, then entered the dark forest. Bobbing orbs of light suspended a few feet off the ground illuminated the forest floor ahead of us as we walked in silence back to our cars. Whiley and I drove over to North Cottonwood Creek Trailhead and dropped my car there, then met Marisa and Garrett at Frenchman Creek Trailhead just off US 24. We anticipated (and ultimately were successful) climbing Point 13,374, Mount Harvard, and Point 13,580 C the next day as a one way trip, so we'd need the shuttle left at North Cottonwood. We then turned in for the night.

Turner had been short but it had graced us with an incredible sunset. I felt great that the persistence had paid off, and better that I'd been able to do it with a great crew of great friends. Thanks for reading.

Statistics

Climbers: Ben Feinstein (myself), Whiley H., Marisa W., Garrett M.
Trailhead: Chaffee County Road 306 (parking at 38.81445, 106.39680)
Total distance: 3.16 miles
Total elevation gain: 1,772 feet
Total time: 1:55:01
Peaks: One ranked thirteener

• Turner Peak, 13,233'

Splits: