This is a winter/spring snow route and NOT recommended as a summer hiking route. From the trailhead, follow the Mt. Harvard - South Slopes Route
to reach Horn Fork Basin - 1
shows the difference between this route and the standard, summer route. Since this is a snow route, you're likely to be ascending a snow-covered basin - simply hike north up along the right side of the basin. Near 12,100' ( 3
) pass a small hill on its right side to reach the junction between the standard Harvard route and this route.
Turn slightly right (northeast) and continue along the left (west) side of the drainage coming down from Harvard's south face. Instead of ascending the center of the drainage, it's easier to stay a bit up on the left side. Above 12,400' angle left (northwest) to see Harvard's south face - 4
. Once you reach 12,800', the south face is in full view - 5
looks back on the drainage. From the upper end of the basin/drainage, take some time to study the south face and the location of the summit - 7
. This route ascends the gully on the right side of 7
. It's easy to identify the gully because of rock outcroppings on its right side and a gendarme about half way up. 8
is another look.
Hike north to the base of the gully and begin climbing - 9
. The steepness starts out in the mid 20 degrees and has a maximum angle of approx. 39 degrees, near 13,700'. Continue ( 11
) to 13,500' where the gendarme will be off to your right - 13
. Depending on snow coverage, there may be some rocky sections in the middle of the gully. Pick your line and continue higher - 14
. Near 14,000' ( 18
) the gully begins to widen out and the summit is up to your left. Below 14,200', angle left ( 19
) and crest the left side of the upper gully to see the summit area - 21
The actual summit is on the far left end of the ridge and, depending on snow coverage, there are several ways to reach the top. Hike west/northwest across an upper snowfield to reach the difficulties below the summit ridge - 22
. Pick your own line or continue left all the way to the point where the summer hiking route ascends the final summit block - 23
. Climb up through the rocks to reach the top. 25
looks down on the upper snowfield and the top of the south face. 26
looks east along the summit ridge. If you are descending the same route, remember to turn left in the upper snow field to reach the top of the correct gully.