Hello community,
I am a seasoned mountain guide who is taking a client up Mount Elbert next weekend (12/16-17). The intention for the climb is to sleep at elevation and get him a possible summit (weather/condition dependent). I have not climbed Elbert during the month of December and was wondering if any of you had any recommendations for routes (Northeast/East Ridges). Probably the biggest factor is the road access for the approach to the trailhead this time of year and with the seasonably warm temps I am wondering if either of these routes will be alright?
All the best,
Alok
Mount Elbert in winter
Forum rules
- This is a mountaineering forum, so please keep your posts on-topic. Posts do not all have to be related to the 14ers but should at least be mountaineering-related.
- Personal attacks and confrontational behavior will result in removal from the forum at the discretion of the administrators.
- Do not use this forum to advertise, sell photos or other products or promote a commercial website.
- Posts will be removed at the discretion of the site administrator or moderator(s), including: Troll posts, posts pushing political views or religious beliefs, and posts with the purpose of instigating conflict within the forum.
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 12/9/2017
- Trip Reports (0)
-
- Posts: 9598
- Joined: 5/4/2005
- 14ers: 58 16
- 13ers: 50 13
- Trip Reports (16)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
The East Ridge is more popular in winter (or near winter) since you can drive to the trailhead near Twin Lakes year round, but since the weather has been so dry and warm you might be able to get to the NE ridge as well.
I have to admit that I find a little strange that a guide is asking this questions on the forum though.
I have to admit that I find a little strange that a guide is asking this questions on the forum though.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
Hopefully the client doesn’t see this post. 

-
- Posts: 839
- Joined: 6/9/2010
- 14ers: 56
- 13ers: 218
- Trip Reports (3)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
SchralpTheGnar wrote:Hopefully the client doesn’t see this post.

I usually find it best to stage the bottled O2 just below treeline, near the start of the fixed ropes.
-
- Posts: 1793
- Joined: 7/10/2007
- 14ers: 46
- 13ers: 24
- Trip Reports (9)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
Wayyyy to early, IMO. That'll barely get you to the 12th false summit. What's your plan after that, Sir Edmund???seano wrote:SchralpTheGnar wrote:Hopefully the client doesn’t see this post.![]()
I usually find it best to stage the bottled O2 just below treeline, near the start of the fixed ropes.

"Tongue-tied and twisted, just an earthbound misfit, am I." -David Gilmour, Pink Floyd
"We knocked the bastard off." Hillary, 1953
"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Hillary, 2003
Couldn't we all use 50 years of humble growth?
-Steve Gladbach
"We knocked the bastard off." Hillary, 1953
"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves." Hillary, 2003
Couldn't we all use 50 years of humble growth?
-Steve Gladbach
-
- Posts: 4690
- Joined: 8/28/2010
- 14ers: 3 1
- Trip Reports (37)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
Half-moon is closed.
Long May You Range! Purveyors of fine bespoke adventures
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
black cloud/ SE ridge will be accessible all winter
After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. -Nelson Mandela
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
-
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 9/29/2017
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
1. Elbert is a walk in the park for a real guide.
2. A real guide wouldn't seek info on this forum.
3. A real guide would have a special use permit.
2. A real guide wouldn't seek info on this forum.
3. A real guide would have a special use permit.
● Experience comes from f*cking up and somehow managing not to die.
● Not everyone gleans the lessons of experience.
● Not everyone gleans the lessons of experience.
-
- Posts: 808
- Joined: 9/26/2011
- 14ers: 58 3
- 13ers: 27
- Trip Reports (1)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
Please don't give Eric such a hard time when posting on this site. Being from Seattle, he doesn't have access to all of the beta and condition information that we take for granted on this site. I am sure that my posts seem a bit noobie when I ask info on cascadeclimbers.com.
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
Someone asks for a little advice on which trailheads will still be open and route recommendations and lots of yall attack him? I guess a "real guide" shouldn't ask for advice from experienced locals, and instead just forge on blindly.
After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. -Nelson Mandela
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
-
- Posts: 293
- Joined: 12/18/2016
- 14ers: 45 1
- 13ers: 17
- Trip Reports (0)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
Three of us did an overnighter on Elbert this weekend. We went up the east ridge route. We were able to drive about 1/2 mile past the South Elbert 2wd trailhead in a 4Runner. Saturday we backpacked up to near tree line, just a little short of 11,700, and set up camp. Sunday morning we hiked up to the summit, arriving a little before 11 am. Got back to the vehicle at 3:30 which included time to break down camp and repack. The trail is packed snow to about 12,500 and then it's a mix of snow and bare ground. Didn't use traction on the way up. Used spikes for the steeper 1000' down off the top then took them off for the rest of the day.
-
- Posts: 86
- Joined: 6/29/2009
- 14ers: 58 4
- 13ers: 237 1
- Trip Reports (4)
Re: Mount Elbert in winter
I did South Elbert and onto the main summit from the trailhead on CO-82 east of Independence Pass in the winter. I think it's called the SE Ridge. That's a great route, and you could camp below the ridge out of the wind. Then day two pop up to South Elbert and then to the summit.
I haven't done other routes on Elbert, but the SE ridge was a blast. You are on the ridge a while so if it's windy you'll be chilly.
I haven't done other routes on Elbert, but the SE ridge was a blast. You are on the ridge a while so if it's windy you'll be chilly.