Deja Vu on Capitol Peak

[Wish I lived in CO]

Can a sign be put up there already? There are a few such warning signs already around the 14ers. This seems like an obvious spot.

[Mtnman200]

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[Wish I lived in CO]

I don't have any definitive info, but just a hunch that many more people are attempting Capitol these days than in years past. Parking lot was full when I was there in June.

Word when I was there was that someone was attempting it as their second 14er (Quandary first), but had other "experience". This person turned around where I did - the knife edge (though I hope for a rematch in a few years!).

[justiner]

Relieved to hear he made it out ok. Stay together as a team through tricky terrain out there, please.

Yes. This is the second reported accident where partners were separated (the other was on Maroon). Partnering is a serious commitment to one another. In the priority of things in the hills, "Get Out Alive" is above, "Stay Friends".

He stated to me that on Capitol, upon returning from the summit to the knife edge, he looked around for an easier route. According to him, he dropped down below the crest of the knife edge, maybe 100 feet IIRC, and easily traversed across along some line he found.

I've heard this from someone else to - someone who's done the full Elk Traverse in one go. I can't verify it though, but he writes about it here:

https://14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f ... 99#p583299

So, just a ledge/shelf below the true knife edge you can drop down. Can't comment on the position (which side), if it exists, if it's solid, how wide it is, etc (I've just used the knife edge). To give some perspective of Kendrick's comfort level, this is also Kendrick on a "ledge"



But this isn't a shortcut - you still gotta go across the knife edge. And if you thought passing/getting passed on the Knife Edge was hard, think about a small ledge on the side of the knife edge. Eeeeeeee.

[FCSquid]

Last summer, on Castle Peak, I met a couple of older fellows. One of them claimed to have done all the CO 14ers at least once.

He stated to me that on Capitol, upon returning from the summit to the knife edge, he looked around for an easier route. According to him, he dropped down below the crest of the knife edge, maybe 100 feet IIRC, and easily traversed across along some line he found.

Anyone have a clue what he was talking about? Perhaps his memory is fuzzy, I don't know how many years it had been since he was on Capitol. As has been said countless times, "if there were an easier way, THAT would be the standard route."

I know some people feel the easiest way to cross the knife edge is to use your hands on the top and walk your feet across below you. Vs scooting across on your butt. But that is not what he described.

I saw someone do this several years ago at the knife edge. There's a small ledge (really small) on the Pierre Lakes side of the knife edge that can be used as a potential bypass. It's small enough that if you slipped from the knife edge-proper, it wouldn't be enough to arrest your fall. Personally, I felt the knife edge itself was a safer option since you're getting a much more solid purchase with 3 and 4 points of contact.

Those little exposed ledges are pretty spooky to me, personally.

[nsaladin]

Still can't believe people just climb this mountain on a whim. I prepared for years before attempting this mountain, researching routes, going on solo climbs, familiarizing myself with mountain terrain. It's always been the same on Capitol though, never fails. Even like six years ago after summiting and approaching the lake some solo climber came up to us at about 1PM and asked if he was on the route for Capitol.

You can literally be holding their hand and they will still walk out into the intersection.

Tell me about it.... I have two left, one being Capitol. So of course I have been trying to get all the beta I can... and I come across this video.

[justiner]

Don't forget your adventure pajama bottoms.

[Bombay2Boulder]

Isn't Capitol Lake on the phase 3 of areas that will require prior permits in the region? This might go either ways, people not attempting the peak due to not getting permits on the days they want or a lot more people trying to day hike it.
Glad this was a positive outcome.

[bmcqueen]

Isn't Capitol Lake on the phase 3 of areas that will require prior permits in the region? This might go either ways, people not attempting the peak due to not getting permits on the days they want or a lot more people trying to day hike it.
Glad this was a positive outcome.

I think the permit discussion is just for overnight camping. It could actually lead to more people trying to day trip Capitol (which could lead to more of these attempted shortcuts actually).

[Bombay2Boulder]

Isn't Capitol Lake on the phase 3 of areas that will require prior permits in the region? This might go either ways, people not attempting the peak due to not getting permits on the days they want or a lot more people trying to day hike it.
Glad this was a positive outcome.

I think the permit discussion is just for overnight camping. It could actually lead to more people trying to day trip Capitol (which could lead to more of these attempted shortcuts actually).

Oh yeah, sorry I wasn't explicit about the overnight part.

[AlexeyD]

I think the permit discussion is just for overnight camping. It could actually lead to more people trying to day trip Capitol (which could lead to more of these attempted shortcuts actually).

Or turn around at K2, thereby avoiding the issue before it arises. One can only hope, though!

[Sean Nunn]

Still can't believe people just climb this mountain on a whim. I prepared for years before attempting this mountain, researching routes, going on solo climbs, familiarizing myself with mountain terrain. It's always been the same on Capitol though, never fails. Even like six years ago after summiting and approaching the lake some solo climber came up to us at about 1PM and asked if he was on the route for Capitol.

You can literally be holding their hand and they will still walk out into the intersection.

+1. I am at 33 or so on my list now (including Long's and Crestone Needle) and I don't feel like I am anywhere near ready for Capitol.