Got eight more peaks yesterday, making up for my slow start I guess.
On Friday, I backpacked in 22.5 miles (solo) on the Glacier Trail to upper Gannett Creek. This put me in great position to climb the notorious Mount Koven, a serrated fin of granite on the Divide at the head of the enormous Gannett Glacier. I climbed a non-crevassed arm of the glacier in the twilight, then climbed a short couloir to the summit ridge, which went at 5.easy. This was one of the most rewarding summits ever!
After downclimbing, I used another arm of the glacier to access Bastion before returning to camp. I packed up and hiked north with my full backpack towards the Divide, climbing up and over U.N. Point 13180, sidehilling moderate snow to gain Flagstone and Pedestal, and side-tripping to the beautifully snowy Klondike Peak. The next section was one of my least favorites last year too--a bunch of talus, endless little ridges, and enough snow postholing to keep my feet soaked. Eventually I made it to U.N. Point 13062 and followed some (thankfully dry) talus to Downs Mountain, reaching the summit of my 8th thirteener of the day around 6 p.m.
I had planned such a long day because the weather forecasts unanimously agreed it would be cloudless sunrise to sunset, and they were right so far. Only a few non-menacing clouds hung to the west. I descended to the east to Goat Flat, when suddenly not even a half hour later, a massive ominous storm appeared out of nowhere over the Divide. I raced it as best as I could, but I ended up still jumping through talus above 12k on a desolate plateau when it hit with lightning all around, driving sleet, and a ripping gust-front. Eventually I reached the safety of treeline around dark, and the trailhead just after midnight, making for a 20+ hour, roughly 27.5-mile day.
It was an exhausting day, and the surprise storm gave it a final kick, but overall it was a great success to get 7 easy peaks plus the rather fearsome Koven, and the views weren't too shabby.
Koven (right) and Gannett (left) in predawn light on the glacier approach
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Gannett Peak and Gannett Glacier from Koven summit
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Bastion (summit just right of center) from U.N. Point 13180
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