As many has eluded to, having to turn around is the name of the game. I don't think there's a single person on these forums (assuming they didn't literally just start peak bagging) that has not been forced to turn around at some point.
As I've gotten more and more into peak bagging and general mountaineering, I've been reading up on 14er accidents and SAR missions. Some may find it scary to think about what can go wrong in the high country. My boyfriend thinks I'm crazy for reading this type of stuff. To me, it's about learning what went wrong and why. How do I avoid putting myself in a situation where I could be seriously injured or require SAR to risk themselves to save me? The biggest factor that I've seen is mental fortitude. Humans can do some incredible things with the right mindset and one of the hardest things to do on a mountain, is knowing when to turn around. The fact that you have the sense to judge your situation, overcome your desire to summit and turn around, is a very positive thing.
I'm halfway through the 14ers now and have left 4 14ers on the table thus far.
1. Holy Cross: We woke up and felt like garbage, but pushed through. We ended up feeling fine after a couple of hours, but it slowed us down big time. We made it to the false summit before the last big pitch and saw dark clouds rolling in from the west. We were maybe 700ft from the summit, but decided to descend. It was the right decision - it started thundering right as we hit tree-line and we got rained on most of the way back to the trailhead.
2. Kit Carson: We went for this one last year in early July after a heavy snow year. We made it all the way up to Challenger without issue (aside from the mosquitoes... HOLY s**t). We had the stamina to continue on to Kit Carson, but talked to 2 gentlemen who had just come back across the avenue. They'd said that there was still plenty of snow and ice and that crampons and an ice axe were highly recommended. Given that I only had brought microspikes, this just wasn't in the cards.
3 & 4. Eolus/North Eolus: We had bagged Windom/Sunlight the day before. We had planned to wake up early, knock out Eolus and North Eolus before trucking it down and catching the train out. We made it up to just below the saddle between Eolus/North Eolus and I just straight couldn't do it. I think the elevation was starting to hit me and we were forced to turn around or miss our ride out. Sure was a bummer, but it gives me an excuse to get back out into Chicago Basin.
I'm sure I'll have to turn around a few more times before I complete my 14er journey, but I can honestly say there have been zero regrets. The mountains will be there tomorrow, as they say; you need to make sure you're there to climb them.
Cory
First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
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oorg
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Miles813
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OldTrad
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Re: First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
14er disasters is an amazing book, i had a really hard time putting it down. i would also recommend "tragedy & triumph in mountain climbing" by brad & melissa, and "on my way up" by alyson kirk... but know that you don't have to spend any money to read about what happens out there- here are some of my favorite trip reports
you can find OODLES more by clicking through the climbing accident forums-- https://14ers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=28
1. navigation | 2. illumination | 3. sun protection | 4. first aid | 5. shelter | 6. insulation | 7. fire | 8. repair | 9. water | 10. food | 11. hot sauce
Re: First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
Matt Payne compiled and thoughtfully analyzed all fatal accidents on 14ers for 2010 through 2013.
http://www.100summits.com/articles/colo ... eaths/2013
AAC's accidents in NA climbing is a good resource too.
http://www.100summits.com/articles/colo ... eaths/2013
AAC's accidents in NA climbing is a good resource too.
Traveling light is the only way to fly.
IG: @colorado_invasive
Strava: Brent Herring
IG: @colorado_invasive
Strava: Brent Herring
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ltlFish99
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Re: First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
On October 2nd of this year, I turned around on the lowest 14er there is, Sunshine.
I underestimated how long it would take me on the east ridge route from the mill creek campground.
It should be called the very steep ridge route, as it is.
I started way to late.
It took me forever to get to 12,000ish feet.
It was quite windy.
I did not have the correct jacket for any real rain.
Clouds were building quickly.
I still had a fair distance to go.
I did not want to descend in the dark, even with a headlamp
I really did not want to get hit by lightning, physics wins, I lose.
So, i turned back on one of the least difficult mountains in the state.
It was the correct decision.
By the time I got back down it was raining moderately but consistently.
45 minutes later, when I would have still been high on the mountain, it was raining hard.
I try to always look at things from a positive perspective and have not yet regretted turning back.
I underestimated how long it would take me on the east ridge route from the mill creek campground.
It should be called the very steep ridge route, as it is.
I started way to late.
It took me forever to get to 12,000ish feet.
It was quite windy.
I did not have the correct jacket for any real rain.
Clouds were building quickly.
I still had a fair distance to go.
I did not want to descend in the dark, even with a headlamp
I really did not want to get hit by lightning, physics wins, I lose.
So, i turned back on one of the least difficult mountains in the state.
It was the correct decision.
By the time I got back down it was raining moderately but consistently.
45 minutes later, when I would have still been high on the mountain, it was raining hard.
I try to always look at things from a positive perspective and have not yet regretted turning back.
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Miles813
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Re: First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
[/quote]
Go find a copy of "Colorado 14er Disasters"
[/quote]
14er disasters is an amazing book, i had a really hard time putting it down. i would also recommend "tragedy & triumph in mountain climbing" by brad & melissa, and "on my way up" by alyson kirk... but know that you don't have to spend any money to read about what happens out there- here are some of my favorite trip reports
you can find OODLES more by clicking through the climbing accident forums-- https://14ers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=28
[/quote]
Thank you both!
Go find a copy of "Colorado 14er Disasters"
[/quote]
14er disasters is an amazing book, i had a really hard time putting it down. i would also recommend "tragedy & triumph in mountain climbing" by brad & melissa, and "on my way up" by alyson kirk... but know that you don't have to spend any money to read about what happens out there- here are some of my favorite trip reports
you can find OODLES more by clicking through the climbing accident forums-- https://14ers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=28
[/quote]
Thank you both!
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nomad
- Posts: 183
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Re: First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
This about sums it up.
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" The more you sweat in peace, the less you bleed in war"
Recon 1st inf. Div.
Recon 1st inf. Div.
Re: First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
+1 on 14ers disasters. Great book, that goes over the talusmonkey thing quite well.stephakett wrote: ↑Thu Dec 30, 2021 11:53 am14er disasters is an amazing book, i had a really hard time putting it down. i would also recommend "tragedy & triumph in mountain climbing" by brad & melissa, and "on my way up" by alyson kirk... but know that you don't have to spend any money to read about what happens out there- here are some of my favorite trip reports
you can find OODLES more by clicking through the climbing accident forums-- https://14ers.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=28
Another classic
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=4871
After climbing a great hill, one only finds that there are many more hills to climb. -Nelson Mandela
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
Whenever I climb I am followed by a dog called Ego. -Nietzsche
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Barnold41
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Re: First Big Mountain Climb Attempt
Can't add much to what's already been said, but knowing that you learned what you need to do better next time is the most useful part. I do the same thing when car camping, backpacking, hiking, climbing, snowboarding, etc. You learn what you need and what you don't need to bring, and how to make better decisions along the way. At this point, I've turned around so many times I can't even count, but I can recognize that mountains aren't going anywhere and I will go back someday or maybe not. In my opinion, everything happens for a reason, especially in the mountains. Learning every time you go out helps you become more aware of your surroundings and situations, and when to make the call to turn around or not. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn't.