Sangres 2026

[sherby]

Hey, new year, new CO summer trip, for 2026 we'll try to tackle the Sangres (we're working on the 14ers + centennials + some extra peaks that are worth it) after last year first foray into the San Juans (we have to go back for the hard one like Dallas, Jagged & co, we did all the 14ers). We either camp at the car on a FS road or the like or we do a more or less long "walk-in" late in the day for the next day's hike.

Anything special worth knowing about the area? We didn't get reservations for Culebra / Red, currently not sure if we'll do them one day or not. We'll hope for a clear day to be able to do the most dreaded traverse, but we'll do the Crestones one first to see how we feel about that (El Diente - Wilson was well within our capabilities).

Last year I saw that overnight parking is not allowed at Lower South Colony anymore, we have a lifted outback with good AT tires, not sure if we stand a chance of going up there, if not we'll do the backpack approach from the Horns creek(?) trail.

Kite Carson north ridge looks really nice.

What's your preference for the Crestones traverse direction?

We have more days (~ 15) then needed for the Sangres, so we'll also do Longs/Meeker and some other nice ones in this area (Apache/Navajo, Audubon, etc.). Yes, we know all about the new non-US residents fee in RMNP

Any comments/suggestions are welcome.

[daway8]

Crestone Traverse is typically done Peak to Needle unless you want to rappel. I thought it had the least intuitive route since so little time is spent on actual ridge (as compared to Little Bear - Blanca where there is essentially almost zero route finding once you gain the ridge because you seldom have any option but to just stay on top of the ridge and keep going).

Don't forget to tag both Crestone Peak and East Crestone to cover your bases (and add NE Crestone if you want some fun class 4).

Take West Ridge Direct for the LB-B Traverse - if you can handle that, you can handle the Traverse. Alternately, try West Ridge Indirect if you want less scrambling while still avoiding the wicked rockfall of the standard Hourglass route.

Kit Carson North Ridge is sweet - if you're doing the traverses then you'll enjoy that route.

I'm a minority opinion on this, but I really don't think the road to South Colony is that bad. If you drive it in a straight line you'll be in trouble but if you have decent clearance and know how to pick a line, it's not really that bad (but many disagree with me on that).

[Marmot72]

I love the Sangres and you are going to have a memorable trip! RE: the road to S Colony, I made it in my '18 Forester with only one "soft hit" underneath on the way out. But I would be nervous about the Outback, as it has a longer front end, and I feel like the Forester is pushing the limit as far as front end length from the axle. There are several pullouts along the north (right side of the road) as you go up.

To second Daway8, I definitely recommend the traverse from Peak to Needle. I did downclimb from the Needle on an attempt of the traverse in the opposite direction, but I found it more puckering than fun - and the climb UP that section is much more fun than pucker.

I loved the LB to Blanca traverse much more than the El Diente -Wilson traverse, because of the superior rock quality.

You mentioned centennials and "extras" - while you are at S Colony, it makes sense to add a day to get to the nearby Music Pass group to the south. Music Mountain is a low 13er but its south ridge is a short, delightful scramble that has one extremely steep, narrow and exposed fin that can be easily bypassed to the west if you don't want that spice. Tijeras makes for a sensible sidetrip on your way to Music's south ridge, as it's a small distance from the saddle to the south and is nearly all class 2 with very brief easy class 3.

[HikesInGeologicTime]

Last year I saw that overnight parking is not allowed at Lower South Colony anymore, we have a lifted outback with good AT tires, not sure if we stand a chance of going up there, if not we'll do the backpack approach from the Horns creek(?) trail.

Personally, I wouldn’t attempt that road with anything less than a dedicated 4WD setting. Then again, I’m a coward with a stock Outback whose tires will need to be replaced later this year. I have seen other stock Outbacks at the 4WD TH, so obviously the driver has quite a bit to do with it. There aren’t a whole lot of places to turn around on that road, though, so I’d say there is definite value in considering the backpack option.

That said, if you do want to consider doing the traverse in a single day, have you looked into the Cottonwood approach from the other (Crestone town) side of the Crestones? It’s not listed under the route descriptions on this site, so you’d want to take a careful look at trip reports etc., especially because it’s only a true trail for part of the approach to Cottonwood Lake, but it does see significantly less traffic than South Colony Lakes, and you sound like you might be up for the adventure.

Yes, we know all about the new non-US residents fee in RMNP

There’s no fee station at the Longs Peak entrance. And if you have time and want to see more of the Park, you can sneak in at alpine start o’clock (I’d recommend before 4 am for optimal parking anyway), and since the stations won’t be staffed at that time, you’d pay the same $0 as us locals starting at the same time.

[sherby]

I love the Sangres and you are going to have a memorable trip! RE: the road to S Colony, I made it in my '18 Forester with only one "soft hit" underneath on the way out. But I would be nervous about the Outback, as it has a longer front end, and I feel like the Forester is pushing the limit as far as front end length from the axle. There are several pullouts along the north (right side of the road) as you go up.

To second Daway8, I definitely recommend the traverse from Peak to Needle. I did downclimb from the Needle on an attempt of the traverse in the opposite direction, but I found it more puckering than fun - and the climb UP that section is much more fun than pucker.

I loved the LB to Blanca traverse much more than the El Diente -Wilson traverse, because of the superior rock quality.

You mentioned centennials and "extras" - while you are at S Colony, it makes sense to add a day to get to the nearby Music Pass group to the south. Music Mountain is a low 13er but its south ridge is a short, delightful scramble that has one extremely steep, narrow and exposed fin that can be easily bypassed to the west if you don't want that spice. Tijeras makes for a sensible sidetrip on your way to Music's south ridge, as it's a small distance from the saddle to the south and is nearly all class 2 with very brief easy class 3.

Yeah, asking for the traverse direction was a brain fart we'll go Peek to Needle.

LB to Blanca, we're still trying to asses all the ways to get up LB, we're definitely thinking of picking something else than the hourglass, but still looking for more info on the west ridge direct vs the goofy video on Mountain Project.

Music/Tijeras are an option we are looking at, considering dedicating a full trip to the Sangres, anyway we need to come back at least 2 times for the Elks and for the harder San Juans (Dallas, Vestal, Jagged, etc.) so we might squeeze Longs on another trip.

[daway8]

Well if it's options for getting up Little Bear that you're looking for - have I got a variety of choices for you!!

West Ridge Direct is a fun ridge with a little class 5 and a LOT of exposure (perfect prep to see if you're ready for the LB-B Traverse!). Excessive level of detail found here:
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

West Ridge Indirect is the more mellow version with just a move or two of class 4 and a brief taste of the wicked exposure of WRD - both of these routes avoid the Hourglass. Most detailed up to date version of the report here:
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

Another cool option that works with either of those is the West Ridge Full Span which avoids the annoying first gully after Lake Como as well as being able to avoid the Hourglass:
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

Plus there's the SW Ridge with its annoying steep loose dirt through cactus covered terrain to gain the ridge that slopes up forever and ever before you top out on the ridge, but other than that seems fine (didn't finish that route yet). Also NW Face for some more class 5 (haven't done yet).

[Marmot72]

I've only done LB twice, both times up the NW face. It is not class 5, but I would say class 4. My first time up, I was alone and not concerned with picking the easiest route up, and found plenty of exposed class 4. My second time, I was following Andrew Hamilton, who inexplicably moved significantly faster than I despite my legs being fresh and that day like being #4 or something on a speed record attempt for him. Andrew was an excellent route-finder and kept the difficulty to nothing beyond class 3 (still with decent exposure).

-Steve

[rainbow_fist]

Piggybacking on Crestones discussion - Did Needle from South Colony Lakes approach in 2023 and did Crestone Peak via Cottonwood Approach in 2025, and I'm planning on the cottonwood approach when I eventually do the traverse. There were cairns throughout the cottonwood approach and GPX files/OnX GPS trail routes to sanity check you. It is a stunning approach that we backpacked since we were coming from out of state and wanted to extend the trip. It was about 5.5 miles and about 4,000' gain from TH to lake. There were a few scambly/boilerplate bits on the trail but you shouldn't bat an eye at if you've done the Class 3/4 San Juan 14ers. Broken Hand Pass is the worst part about the Crestones, so avoiding that by taking the Cottonwood approach was nice. I'd recommend the Cottonwood Approach given your itinerary of the west side Sangre 14ers as well.

Kit Carson North Ridge - did that last year on the same trip as Crestone Peak and it was a blast. Solid rock, easy to follow the ridge, and you only have to deal with the annoying and loose Challenger Point trail once. Would do again without hesitation

[sherby]

Thanks for reports daway8, started to check the west ridge direct one, the last section still feel a bit confusing, I need to dig more into it.

Beside the 14ers, we have to get the cents, if anyone has something interesting about them, but they seem pretty straightforward.
Huerfano Peak
California Peak
Obstruction Peak (#105, might as well do it)
Mount Adams
Columbia Point (forgot that one)

Rito Alto Peak is above 13800' we might try to add it, but the approach seems pretty terrible (we would have to walk up the entire road, it seems even the most modded OBW doen't stand a chance there).

Music & co. are definitely interesting ones.

Are Broken Hand + Crestita worth it if we are already at S. Colony?

[Phill the Thrill]

Obstruction is not a Cent, by the way, but Columbia Point is, and is a very fun climb when combined with Kit Carson Peak (Willow Lake approach).

[sherby]

Obstruction is not a Cent, by the way, but Columbia Point is, and is a very fun climb when combined with Kit Carson Peak (Willow Lake approach).

We were planning to Obstruction + Colombia Point from South Colony Lakes.

[Conor]

you can get all the way to challenger point from S. colony lakes. It's nothing harder than class 3, if that. Humboldt to challenger point would be nice day if camping at S. colony. Starting from 11,500' ish would be much better than 8,900'.