I've done all 4 of them twice and I would rank them according to which route you take on LB/Blanca. If you do the standard route on all 4 traverses, I would rank them this way:
1. Bells
2. LB/ Blanca
3. Crestones
4. El D/Mt. Wilson
If you switch up and do the NW Face to ascend LB, then I would rank them this way:
1. LB/Blanca
2. Bells
3. Crestones
4. El D/Mt Wilson
Be prepared for serious exposure on the Bells, LB/Blanca, and Crestones. Adrenaline fest!
Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
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Michael J
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
"I've often heard a voice call down to me
If you'd climb higher you'd find wondrous things to see..."
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Wentzl
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
Why are all the reports from LB/B traverse in that order. I have done it twice, following convention. Next time, the other way.
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Mtnman200
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
Presumably so you get the hourglass over with sooner. At least, I can't think of a better reason.Wentzl wrote:Why are all the reports from LB/B traverse in that order.
"Adventure without risk is not possible." - Reinhold Messner
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Monster5
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
Blanca makes for a quicker and easier descent than Little Bear. It's less stressful at the end of a big traverse with afternoon weather rolling in. Otherwise, the traverse itself is easier going Blanca to LB in my opinion.Wentzl wrote:Why are all the reports from LB/B traverse in that order.
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hokiehead
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
did the Blanca Traverse on Saturday. I consider it the most difficult and there isn't a close second.
The mental exhaustion of constant focus the whole way is what separates this. I found the exposure much higher than anything else I've ever done, both in intensity and in volume. The route description is right that you face the exposure right at the start with the class 4 downclimbs -- it doesn't really get any worse after that, but it's unrelenting pretty much the whole way.
I will call out whoever wrote the route description (https://www.14ers.com/route.php?route=litt3) about the final pitch being "a breeze". It seems like you're done with exposed stuff and just need to plod up Blanca, but there's a final section of exposure that I wasn't prepared for. It's no more dangerous than anything else, but we thought we were done with exposure and started to relax... and then we're suddenly at another knife's edge/cat walk kind of deal. I would caution climbers to stay vigilant. And note that you can get a good signal at LB's summit -- recommend a weather check before committing.
I'm really proud of this one, and it's unlike any other experience I've had.
hokiehead's ranking from most to least difficult:
1. Blanca
T2. Wilsons
T2. Bells
4. Crestones
I'd do any of the other's again, no issue. It would take a lot to get me to do the Blanca traverse again.
The mental exhaustion of constant focus the whole way is what separates this. I found the exposure much higher than anything else I've ever done, both in intensity and in volume. The route description is right that you face the exposure right at the start with the class 4 downclimbs -- it doesn't really get any worse after that, but it's unrelenting pretty much the whole way.
I will call out whoever wrote the route description (https://www.14ers.com/route.php?route=litt3) about the final pitch being "a breeze". It seems like you're done with exposed stuff and just need to plod up Blanca, but there's a final section of exposure that I wasn't prepared for. It's no more dangerous than anything else, but we thought we were done with exposure and started to relax... and then we're suddenly at another knife's edge/cat walk kind of deal. I would caution climbers to stay vigilant. And note that you can get a good signal at LB's summit -- recommend a weather check before committing.
I'm really proud of this one, and it's unlike any other experience I've had.
hokiehead's ranking from most to least difficult:
1. Blanca
T2. Wilsons
T2. Bells
4. Crestones
I'd do any of the other's again, no issue. It would take a lot to get me to do the Blanca traverse again.
Insta: hokiehead
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ultimategully
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
I thought the rock on the Bells Traverse was pretty good generally. Certainly better and more solid than I was expecting given all the people talking about how loose it is. All the climbing sections featured super solid rock, with the crux being a bomber hand crack up that very short chimney (cannot ask for better holds than that). I felt all the loose stuff was really on the walking and easy scrambling sections (particularly the sections right below the summit of N Maroon. I wouldn't let the reputation of "looseness" scare you off if you are comfortable on easy 5th terrain.
Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
I think the rock on the Bells is better than Wilson haha. Felt totally chill. I also thought the route finding on Crestones was almost trivial and I didn't need to reference any material since the route appeared obvious. Interesting how we all have such differing opinions. LB Blanca is, IMO easily the hard one (in summer). Feels much more serious while the others feel like a fun romp.
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Mountainsroam_2012
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
My rating for most difficult:
#1 Little Bear Blanca - sustained difficult class 3 and 4 climbing with heavy exposure.
#2 Maroon Bells - Real steep sections of class 5 with exposure.
#3 Crestones - The Needle wall, some tricky sections on traverse, and the downclimb of the Needle.
#4 Wilsons - if you don't do ridge direct the whole way and do the standard traverse route ( standard for me ) easiest. Fun class 3 and light class 4 action with some exposure.
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onebyone
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
Can't argue with this. That last section reaching the summit of the Needle is prob scarier than anything the Bells traverse but it's just a small section whereas the Bells has more sustained difficulty.
The thing with all 4 of these traverse is the climb itself (pre traverse) is difficult. Then you are adding the traverse onto an already solid climb.
Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
I heard the Satan traverse is being added to the list of great 14er traverses.
And that Joe took his tripod up to Sunlight Spire and confirmed that it is over 14,000 feet and it is ranked.
And that Joe took his tripod up to Sunlight Spire and confirmed that it is over 14,000 feet and it is ranked.
Traveling light is the only way to fly.
IG: @colorado_invasive
Strava: Brent Herring
IG: @colorado_invasive
Strava: Brent Herring
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Edwardteach
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Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
Sunlight has 300'? This would be great news, is it too early for champagne? This would beat California for high elevation hard climbs Thunderbolt Peak (14,003 feet) last 20' 5.9 yds
Dallas peak Is more elevated than Teton lizard head is more difficult than Teton and sunlight spire 5.10 yds is more technical grade than thunderbolt
Re: Which of the 4 Great Traverses would you consider as the hardest?
Little Bear -> Blanca is the hardest.
The second hardest is the flashbacks from the doing Little Bear -> Blanca traverse.
The second hardest is the flashbacks from the doing Little Bear -> Blanca traverse.
