Helmet safety

[daway8]

This is a case of you don't know what you don't know - not sure how I've gone all this time and only just now discovered this but I strongly suspect I'm not the only with with this problem so I'll be the one to stick my neck out and take a beating in case I still don't have this properly figured out. So by all means correct me if I'm wrong but I'm hoping people will at least be courteous with any constructive criticism since I have taken various climbing classes but somehow never picked up this level of detail on proper fitting for a helmet and I'm sharing my own error for the benefit of others. What I'm writing here is the product of some quick research online and thus the invitation for constructive criticism in case anything is lacking or incorrect.

Here's the issue: after seeing an example of a helmet that very clearly was not properly adjusted, as I tried to put words to what specifically about it was wrong, I had to go grab my own climbing helmet to look at the adjustments so that I could describe the problem. But in the process of giving greater scrutiny to my own helmet, I discovered that with an upwards push with the palm of my hand under the front rim of my helmet I could easily push the helmet back off my head so that it would be hanging around my neck by the chin strap but no longer covering my head at all.

This means that I might have been protected from rockfall, but that if I had taken a fall, my helmet could have easily gotten pushed off my head and thus provided zero protection!

Obviously this is not good, especially for a guy like me who does a lot of scrambling.

Here's the fix: a little online research showed I needed to adjust the straps such that the clicker wheel at the back sat lower on my head - underneath the occipital bone (where the skull curves in a bit). Once I did this, and then adjusted the side straps to make the typical Y-shape under the ears and have the chin strap adjusted to have a finger or two of space such as not to restrict breathing or swallowing, I found the fit was far more secure.

After making this adjustment, I could put the helmet on, tighten the clicker wheel till it was snug but not crushing and even before I clicked the chin strap in place I could push up/back under the front rim of my helmet with my palm and could not knock my helmet off.

I guess I had mainly viewed my climbing helmet as protection against rockfall or from banging my head against a rock and I suppose that's why I never detected this problem before, but I'm so glad that I discovered this so that if I ever do take a fall in the mountains, now I'll at least hopefully have my helmet properly fitted so that it will provide the maximum possible protection.

I was surprised after doing some quick searches how few videos/websites really gave much if any detail on these simple yet critical adjustments. This website here has perhaps some of the more useful photos/descriptions although a quick AI search is how I found the tip about having the clicker below the occipital bone https://blog.weighmyrack.com/how-to-bes ... ng-helmet/

Hopefully this info will help some others and if there are other important adjustments or considerations I've failed to mention (or if I've said anything incorrect), this is a great spot for people to add their own tips.

[daway8]

Shorter summary of key takeaway:

Put your climbing helmet on as you normally would. Then unclip the chin strap. Try to remove your helmet. If you can lift your helmet off, push or pull it off then you don't have it adjusted properly. You should not be able to get that helmet off your head until you loosen the clicker wheel in the back - if you can, then if could easily be knocked off in a fall (obviously you want your chin strap clipped in place when climbing, but when testing for a secure fit, unclip it - the chin strap should not be the primary thing that holds your helmet in place).

[backcountrybrodes]

Also very worth highlighting is the size of helmet you buy when you initially pick one up (S, M, L, etc.) because they are different. Bonus points if you can try it on - making sure the rear adjustment setting is snug and comfortable pays dividends when you are on the mountain. I found a good helmet to be worth spending more money on than I would initially consider this year, and it's been extremely worth it. (I bought the Black Diamond Vision MIPS).

My 50 cents is when deciding to wear it, ideally you have one so light to where it doesn't matter much whether you bring it or not - but if you have to waver, rockfall potential is a better deciding factor than technicality is. I.e. if you're going up steep class 2 with loose/dangerous rock, I would recommend one. Don't want this to happen without it!! (Or with it for that matter. Proper rockfall etiquette is a must too.)

[cottonmountaineering]

thanks for the tips! one note about what i see out in the wild:

stop wearing gigantic thicc beanies below your helmet, it makes the helmet kinda worthless

consider replacing your old helmet: a lot of the old style mountaineering helmets have no protection for the back of your head, if you hit the back of your head on a rock there is a good possibility you will die. most of the modern replacements are wrapping around the back of the head now (within past 5 years or so)

[ekalina]

Bonus points if you can try it on - making sure the rear adjustment setting is snug and comfortable pays dividends when you are on the mountain.

Agreed, and bring along your eye/sunglasses, and/or glacier glasses too. I've definitely encountered some uncomfortable helmet/glass combos.

[PJ88]

thanks for the tips! one note about what i see out in the wild:

stop wearing gigantic thicc beanies below your helmet, it makes the helmet kinda worthless

consider replacing your old helmet: a lot of the old style mountaineering helmets have no protection for the back of your head, if you hit the back of your head on a rock there is a good possibility you will die. most of the modern replacements are wrapping around the back of the head now (within past 5 years or so)

Just to piggyback on this - remember to replace your helmet regularly. I just got a new one this year and noticed the packaging said the lifespan is 5 - 8 years for occasional use and 2 - 5 years with regular use, even without an impact or obvious damage.

[seano]

Just to piggyback on this - remember to replace your helmet regularly. I just got a new one this year and noticed the packaging said the lifespan is 5 - 8 years for occasional use and 2 - 5 years with regular use, even without an impact or obvious damage.

Is this something real, or is it like the "best by" dates on canned food, which can be safely ignored? Does foam break down with exposure to a certain amount of head sweat?

[PJ88]

Just to piggyback on this - remember to replace your helmet regularly. I just got a new one this year and noticed the packaging said the lifespan is 5 - 8 years for occasional use and 2 - 5 years with regular use, even without an impact or obvious damage.

Is this something real, or is it like the "best by" dates on canned food, which can be safely ignored? Does foam break down with exposure to a certain amount of head sweat?

Not sure of the exact science behind it and if their timelines are accurate, but it makes sense that the sweat and oils from your head along with exposure to the sun at elevation over time would degrade the padding in helmets. All my hockey helmets have had stickers on them stating when they would no longer be certified by the HECC as well so I am guessing there is something to it. Either way I'm not going to risk my head. Worst case scenario, replacing a helmet every five years or so isn't that big of a deal and you likely get a lighter, more comfortable helmet.

[DaveLanders]

Just to piggyback on this - remember to replace your helmet regularly. I just got a new one this year and noticed the packaging said the lifespan is 5 - 8 years for occasional use and 2 - 5 years with regular use, even without an impact or obvious damage.

Is this something real, or is it like the "best by" dates on canned food, which can be safely ignored? Does foam break down with exposure to a certain amount of head sweat?

Not sure of the exact science behind it and if their timelines are accurate, but it makes sense that the sweat and oils from your head along with exposure to the sun at elevation over time would degrade the padding in helmets. All my hockey helmets have had stickers on them stating when they would no longer be certified by the HECC as well so I am guessing there is something to it. Either way I'm not going to risk my head. Worst case scenario, replacing a helmet every five years or so isn't that big of a deal and you likely get a lighter, more comfortable helmet.

Not sure about the foam degradation, but degradation of the hard plastic in the helmet is real. Hard hats I've used for trail work and other volunteer jobs usually have a 10 year spec for their safe life. I squeezed an older hard hat once, and the shell cracked! UV exposure degrades plastic, so one tip is to store your helmet in a dark place.

[daway8]

Just to piggyback on this - remember to replace your helmet regularly. I just got a new one this year and noticed the packaging said the lifespan is 5 - 8 years for occasional use and 2 - 5 years with regular use, even without an impact or obvious damage.

Is this something real, or is it like the "best by" dates on canned food, which can be safely ignored? Does foam break down with exposure to a certain amount of head sweat?

Not sure of the exact science behind it and if their timelines are accurate, but it makes sense that the sweat and oils from your head along with exposure to the sun at elevation over time would degrade the padding in helmets. All my hockey helmets have had stickers on them stating when they would no longer be certified by the HECC as well so I am guessing there is something to it. Either way I'm not going to risk my head. Worst case scenario, replacing a helmet every five years or so isn't that big of a deal and you likely get a lighter, more comfortable helmet.

Excellent point - I knew helmets are supposed to be retired if they take a blow but I hadn't realized that there's essentially an expiration date even if not damaged, but it makes sense now that I think about it.

Quick search indicates key issues are:
- Foam compression over time
- UV radiation causing degradation/weakening of the shell
- Sweat/suntan lotion, etc causing gradual breakdown

Looks like my current helmet is nearing its lifespan based on my usage - thanks for the tip! Wonder if they have any snazzy new colors out...