Effectiveness of microspikes on rock

[Old Hickory]

I had to turn back from Uncompahgre last August when I hit the west side of the mountain -- there had been a storm the night before and the rocks looked like they had been dusted with powdered sugar. I have Vibram-soled Scarpas and had to keep my center of gravity low to get out of there. Would microspikes have helped in this situation or just gotten me into more trouble? Are there "grippier" soles out there than Vibrams in hiking boots?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Tory Wells]

I say no. Microspikes work best on packed snow. On rock dusted with snow, you are more likely to lose purchase and fall on your ass (or face).

You have to move slower and more purposeful--more focused--but your Scarpas should do fine in a situation like that.

[youngk2844]

I have found Microspikes help prevent slips on wet rock. Foot placement, balance and body movement are still the most important aspects for avoiding a slip but the Spikes can get into small crevices in the wet rock that my Vibram soles can not.

On Sunday, I climbed the North Buttress route on El Diente. The last bit is steep class 4 and the rock was still wet from an early morning storm. I put on my Spikes and felt much more secure.

I have been using Spikes on wet rock for many years. I try to avoid wet rock when possible but find the Spikes do grip most types of wet rock better than my Vibram boots.

[rob runkle]

Both of the other posts captured the major points. I dealt with similar conditions this weekend on Hope and Oklahoma. And, basically, you have to focus on better foot placement. No "slab walking". And, slow down.

[AyeYo]

IMO, they absolutely help on wet/icy rock, though it will wear them prematurely. I stupidly climbed a nearly snowless Cristo last fall and the spikes are the only way I was able to make it up and down safely.

[Old Hickory]

Thanks to everyone! Very helpful information. Especially the "slow down" part!

[ezabielski]

If you do enough hiking/running on wet rock, roots, logs, snow, ice (etc), you start to develop a sixth sense about grip and a particular sensitivity for how you place your feet and apply force so as not to slip. I am not sure there's any fast way to develop this skill except getting out there. I've been on group trail runs in the winter, wearing identical shoes as other people in the group, and some of them absolutely take me to town on the technical downhills even when I have microspikes and they don't. It's pretty neat.

[Old Hickory]

If you do enough hiking/running on wet rock, roots, logs, snow, ice (etc), you start to develop a sixth sense about grip and a particular sensitivity for how you place your feet and apply force so as not to slip. I am not sure there's any fast way to develop this skill except getting out there. I've been on group trail runs in the winter, wearing identical shoes as other people in the group, and some of them absolutely take me to town on the technical downhills even when I have microspikes and they don't. It's pretty neat.

Thanks esazbielski! That might explain the thinking behind those people (admittedly much younger than me) whom I met on my way down from the slick rocks of Unc, who appeared bemused/bewildered by my earnest warning that it was really slippery up there.

[polar]

It hasn’t been mentioned yet, but it kind of depends on the type of rock. Microspikes works better on angular, blocky rock when the metal points can catch on edges and incuts, but on rounded sloppy rock, metal will be more slippery than rubber. You can test this by trying to walk up a moderately angled slab of rock in microspikes. Metal points can also skid out of their placements in a much less controlled fashion than rubber, especially on angled rock.

Also, not all Vibram soles are the same. If your shoes have deep sole patterns, they should work pretty well on light dusting of snow, as long as you keep snow from sticking to the bottom of your shoes. If your shoes have shallow sole patterns or even flat soles (Vibram makes those too), then they will slide around much easier on snow.

One tip I have for walking on snowy/wet ground is to test the traction by turning your foot in a twisting motion (imagine you’re trying to smear out a lit cigarette butt), you can do this mid-stride without any risk of slipping and falling, so you can test as often as you’d like. This gives you a really good idea of the condition of the ground, and whether you need extra traction or not.