Disappointment Peak, Wyoming

[mnsebourn]

Hello all.

I'll possibly be in the Teton area of Wyoming this summer, and I've been looking for a less challenging climb than the Grand Teton itself, something more akin to a challenging scramble at most. After a some online research, I've set my eyes on the "Lake Ledges" route of Disappointment Peak. Unfortunately, there isn't a lot of detailed information about this mountain/route. Even the Summit Post page is pretty vague.

Has anybody here attempted or summited Disappointment Peak who can provide an account of the climb? Or can you point me to a good resource for the peak?

Thanks much.

[Scott P]

I don't know much about Disappointment Peak, but I'd suggest looking into the Middle Teton as well. It's the easiest "major" summit in the range.

[jbchalk]

Great peak, one of the easier ones in the range. Great trail to Amphitheater Lake and then some off trail scrambling/route-finding, though easy, to the summit. I think I climbed it in 1995ish. It can't be that hard to navigate as I had no prior information on it back then as SP & MP didn't exist (not that I knew of) and my dad and I didn't have a lot of scrambling mountain experience at the time.

[mnsebourn]

I don't know much about Disappointment Peak, but I'd suggest looking into the Middle Teton as well. It's the easiest "major" summit in the range.

I'll look into the Middle Teton. Thanks for the recommendation.

[Stone_man]

If you're aiming to do some amount of climbing in the Tetons, you might want to check out 'Teton Rock Climbs' by Aaron Gams. Basically a photo-based guidebook, covering 3rd class to 5th class technical routes on the whole range--but with great photo detail of approaches, descents, and even pitch-by-pitch, so it's really nice for technical routes. I can personally vouch for it since I have it--helped keep us on route when we did the Upper Exum ridge on the Grand. I know I've scoped a Disappointment Peak technical route in it, and it I know it details the approach and descent routes to the peak including the ledge weakness to get above the lake.

[kwhit24]

I don't know much about Disappointment Peak, but I'd suggest looking into the Middle Teton as well. It's the easiest "major" summit in the range.

I'll look into the Middle Teton. Thanks for the recommendation.

If you are looking at Middle Teton here is a little write-up I made from my trip to Jackson Hole this past summer. See Day 3.

http://14ers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... le#p610471

It was a really fun hike with some good easy scrambling. Enjoy!

[spiderman]

You might consider going to the Winds instead of the Tetons if you are in that general area. I found it more beautiful and much more pristine. The trails from Elkhart Park (get there from Pinedale, WY) are marvelous. Many of the peaks are multiday expeditions, but just seeing the scenery on a day hike is priceless.

[rijaca]

You might consider going to the Winds instead of the Tetons if you are in that general area. I found it more beautiful and much more pristine. The trails from Elkhart Park (get there from Pinedale, WY) are marvelous. Many of the peaks are multiday expeditions, but just seeing the scenery on a day hike is priceless.

Don't go to the Winds. Ugly mountains, nasty weather, killer mosquitos....

Fremont - small.JPG

[mnsebourn]

Thanks to everyone who's replied thus far.

Middle Teton is looking more and more appealing, and if we're in the area long enough, I might try to check out some of the Wind River Range.

[JuJu]

I climbed Irene's Arete in September. We went up from the Caves and descended via Amphitheater Lake to make it a daytrip. The approach took us a long time (2.5 hr?), likely because we referenced a book from the 90s (Teton Classics by Rossiter). I think there are shorter approach trails that we could have taken. There are a few variations (described in book), so if you're climbing near your limit, it's good to know the grades. We probably got off route on the descent because we made a rap off a shelf (others had left webbing here as well). There is some info on MP (though I don't think it lists the climb variations) or try getting a book from the library or AAC. Great route! Definitely more committing than a 'challenging scramble' though.

Also went to the Winds in September just after Labor Day. Great hiking, but early wintry weather shutdown any technical climbing.

[seano]

After a some online research, I've set my eyes on the "Lake Ledges" route of Disappointment Peak.

I've gone up the Lake Ledges once, and used them as a descent once or twice. They're sort of confusing from above, and not all that fun. If you're there in June and confident on snow, the Spoon Couloir is a better way to get up and down Disappointment.

However, you would probably have more fun doing the East Face or East Ridge of Buck. Less crowds, direct approach, and a great summit view.

[TravelingMatt]

I've done both Disappointment and the Middle.

Disappointment requires a Class 4 move along a ledge shortly past the lake. There's a cool hole you lift yourself up through, too, similar to near the summit of Sunlight in Colorado. (The Class 4 move isn't the hole, that's only 3, it's right above the hole.) Then there's a use trail until the final 100 feet or so, then it's a moderate scramble to the summit.

Middle is a LONG day. After the trail ends there's a lot of up-and-down through a boulderfield and above that some routefinding challenges before you get through a long, relentless climb up to the South Saddle. Then it's a couple hundred easier feet up to a flat area and a few hundred more up from there (class 2/3) to the summit.

My favorite climb was Buck, just to the south of the three Tetons. Class 3 with easy routefinding.