Whitney Mountaineers Route

[Istoodupthere]

It’s that time of year when I start dreaming of the peaks I want to summit in the upcoming months. I’ve done the standard route on Whitney. Has anyone done the Mountaineers Route? Is there a route in Colorado that you would compare it to?

[susanjoypaul]

I did it a long time ago. Lots of fun! The closest Colorado 14er I would compare it to technically is Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route. Like Longs, there's a boulder field, some slabby rock, and a bit of scrambling on steep rocks involved. But it's longer and since you'll probably be camping, you of course have to carry a lot more weight in your pack. If you have the time and the energy, check out nearby Russell too. It's even more exciting. You'll want a full day for each, with stellar weather. Trip report here: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=7035

[greenonion]

I did it a long time ago. Lots of fun! The closest Colorado 14er I would compare it to technically is Longs Peak via the Keyhole Route. Like Longs, there's a boulder field, some slabby rock, and a bit of scrambling on steep rocks involved. But it's longer and since you'll probably be camping, you of course have to carry a lot more weight in your pack. If you have the time and the energy, check out nearby Russell too. It's even more exciting. You'll want a full day for each, with stellar weather. Trip report here: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=7035

Yeah, Russell looks really cool, and maybe a bit hairy too!

[susanjoypaul]

...If you have the time and the energy, check out nearby Russell too. It's even more exciting.

Yeah, Russell looks really cool, and maybe a bit hairy too!

Yep, maybe more like Capitol, with a pretty sustained narrow ridge. Technically, it's no more difficult than Whitney via the Mountaineers Route, but the exposure on the vertical wall is a real mindf*ck. Trip report for that one here (oops looks like I need to get my pictures off Photobucket): https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=8874

[seano]

I'd agree that the Mountaineer's Route is like the Keyhole -- mostly walking, with just a bit of scrambling near the top, and not particularly exposed. Russell's east ridge is a much better climb, but much more exposed.

[Skimo95]

I’d have to agree with the trough route on longs. The “hardest” sections were probably the off angle slabs initially and the direct finish my partner and I took after topping out. It really is a beautiful and fun route, I highly recommend it.

[greenonion]

...If you have the time and the energy, check out nearby Russell too. It's even more exciting.

Yeah, Russell looks really cool, and maybe a bit hairy too!

Yep, maybe more like Capitol, with a pretty sustained narrow ridge. Technically, it's no more difficult than Whitney via the Mountaineers Route, but the exposure on the vertical wall is a real mindf*ck. Trip report for that one here (oops looks like I need to get my pictures off Photobucket): https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=8874

Thanks for posting that (Russell TR)! The photos sure do have a Cap feel, and probably crazier. Good to know it’s mostly solid, but gotta keep your head together! Thanks again

[nyker]

The Mountaineers Route on Whitney is classic. How it compares to a standard route on a 14er, also depends on when you do it. If you're ok on snow, best to do it with the main chute snow covered to avoid the scree for a nice snow climb up the final stretch.

In contrast to the Whitney standard route ("the Mule Way" in John Muirs words, which has a defined trail right to the summit hut, the route finding on The Mountaineers Route is a little trickier than a CO 14er and has a little more overland cross country feel, but it's pretty straightforward if you pay attention. The last section of steep blocky rock and boulders or the "Final 400" is the crux of the route and is the no fall zone; is either best done all dry or fully snow covered; the in-between conditions with mixed ice make it a more treacherous. Much shorter than the main trail but steeper throughout with around the same elevation gain. The Sierra on average feels drier than Colorado which makes peaks there feel like they climb higher. If you're in decent shape, very doable as a day trip with an alpine start.

For comparison to CO 14ers, you really just need to focus on the Final 400 and maybe the scree gulleys leading up to the notch above Iceberg Lake. Those are just slippery gulleys you might find on many a 14er; for the Final 400; maybe similar to a combination of Longs Trough, last bit on Wetterhorn, summit of Sunlight, El Diente, around the V notch on Sneffels, under the summit of Wilson Peak, but with that said, it's still different than those and somewhat unique.

Of course for Whitney you'll need a permit, which at least years ago was always a challenge to secure "in season", easier off season.

[Monster5]

I like the comparison to Trough on Longs followed by summit pitch of Wetterhorn for a spring climb, Sneffles in spring (though a tad harder up top), or even just Longs via the Loft since the scrambling nature is more on par with dropping off the Loft to Keplinger's than the Homestretch.
Perhaps Kit Carson via Cole's or OB Couloir, or Little Bear Hourglass during late spring. It has a steep approach, moderate snow, and wander-y, blocky scrambling up top conditions dependent.
In general, a late March - May Mountaineer's Route climb is an excellent early mountaineering experience on par to CO's harder 14ers in May or June conditions.

[Istoodupthere]

Appreciate the feedback everyone