Climbing a Class 3 without experience

[mjt16940]

I am a college student in the midwest and I want to try to climb mt Eolus and wisdom peak this summer. I am in decent shape, and will be in even better by then (hopefully 4 miles under 28 minutes, benching 250). I am getting into rock climbing and I want a goal that I can work towards. Do you think that these peaks would be out of my skill area?

[daway8]

The biggest wildcard based on that brief bio is the question of how your body will respond to altitude. Some very fit people find they struggle greatly with the altitude - other people aren't really bothered by it.

Not a bad idea to try an "easy" 14er like Bierstadt or Quandary first to make sure the altitude isn't an issue. Windom isn't too hard as 14ers go but Eolus can be intimidating doing the catwalk with lots of exposure and then that last steep bit to the summit. If heights bother you that could be an issue. It's also a bit of a hike to get back in there - most people take the train and camp overnight. Bring a helmet for Eolus as there is rockfall danger on the final pitch.

[mjt16940]

Despite being from the midwest I grew up skiing and am now to the point where I know altitude won't kill me and I am not afraid of heights or the scenarios that climbing might bring. With that in mind do you think that they would be doable?

[daway8]

I mean some people jump straight to the hardest class 4 peaks as their very first climbs and do just fine. It's a lot more common though for people to do class 1 and 2 and then slowly work up to 3, etc.

But there are no hard rules as to when someone can do what - it comes down to your personal risk tolerance and how confident you are on steep loose terrain.

If you feel ready, give it a try - you can always turn around if you feel like you're getting in over your head. Or, like I suggested, do a couple easy peaks first if you want a confidence boost.

Be sure to download the 14ers app and download the route photos for offline access - those can help a lot if you're new to the peaks. Also a good GPS app like GAIA with the gpx tracks for the route and offline maps downloaded can really help with navigation.

[Monte Meals]

^"Not a bad idea to try an "easy" 14er like Bierstadt or Quandary first..."

Agreed. Do Bierstadt first and scramble around all over the top and see how you feel.
Alternatively, drive to the top of Pikes and do the same.

I've lived in Colorado Springs (elev 6700 ft) for decades and still feel "buzzy" when
working hard above 13k unless I've recently spent a fair amount of time above 10K.

For me, 5.3 scrambles seem considerable more challenging at 14K

[Jorts]

Eolus has deceptively tricky routefinding through the grassy ledges IMO. If you’re not experienced with routefinding on the micro level, I think it’s a bad idea. I did Windom in the dark though. I think it’s easier than Eolus. The Weminuche is beautiful. Worth the trip.

It’s notable that both Windom and Eolus (specifically the catwalk) have had fatal accidents in recent years. Don’t take them lightly.

[nyker]

it depends...In addition to the other comments above, have you some experience hiking longer distances, maybe some scrambling and any experience exerting yourself at higher altitude? If so, then maybe these would be fine. If you've never hiked anywhere and never been up at higher altitude/exerting yourself at altitude, then its really a question mark you won't know until you try yourself higher up, ideally as mentioned on easier peaks, but similar altitude of your objective.

[Scott P]

Can you route-find or go with someone who can? For what it's worth, my son climbed Windom just after turning four.

[mtree]

Will these peaks be out of your skill area? No clue.

If you go for it you'll find out. These aren't rated above class 3 nor are they a ridiculous amount of mileage so they're quite doable. That doesn't mean they're easy. Route finding and exposure (on Eolus) are the biggest factors. Yes, you can get yourself in trouble and die, but if you don't have a death wish you can always turn around... although it might be too late on the catwalk or summit pitch. Overall, they're a big commitment because of the travel to get to them. The train and its location (Durango), hiking into the wilderness, then the day or days of climbing. Weather needs to cooperate, and you have to catch the train back so several days commitment at a minimum. As long as you're prepared and don't do anything stupid I always say give it a go!

[hellmanm]

If you're a fit college kid, fitness won't be an issue. Being fit is a huge bonus, as it's easier to keep a clear head during mile 8, run yourself out of a tough weather spot...etc. Altitude might, but as others have said, testing this isn't terribly tricky. How's your experience backpacking? Blisters, cramps from not eating enough sodium, getting everything wet in the rain, lack of sleep in an uncomfortable tent...etc are all as likely to be an issue as anything else. I know in college I could sometimes just "put on the cape" and slog my way through stuff, but with multi-days those things can add up.

Re: moves/exposure -- use your head, take your time, and you'll be fine. Eolus has cairns everywhere and Windom has pretty easy routefinding. I do think it's worth a couple days in the climbing gym to get your skill right, though. If you get in an awkward spot, having the skill to pull a class 4/low 5 move to get yourself up or down to a safe spot can be really helpful on a peak like Eolus.

So, as far as training: 1. Keep up the fitness stuff. 2. train some climbing in the gym (preferably on the wall instead of the cave to get used to air beneath your feet, and downclimb too). 3. get your backpacking setup right (and walk around with it a bit to test). 4. Test yourself at altitude. 5. as the climb approaches, research the route, weather...etc carefully.

I think it's totally feasible, and btw going for Sunlight and N. Eolus while you're up there is too

[Veory]

If you have a natural affinity for heights and exposure, go for it and wear a helmet. Do research, take reference pics or gpx, and don't go off route. Most people are capable of climbing class 3 terrain easily if their mind lets them.

[JQDivide]

If by "getting into rock climbing" means you are climbing hard routes in the gym and are getting into harder real climbing on local rock formations....
Than the Class 3 sections of 14ers will be a fairly easy scramble.

As an FYI... the classification of a peak is based on the hardest move... and it could be one move.
Most Class 3 sections are short.
It could be one or two C3 moves among a bunch of C2. Or it could be 200-300 feet of C3 scrambling.
Totally depends on the peak.
Windom is C2, but cool rocks at the top.
Eolus is C3 on the main upper route, C4 on the ridge route. I would call it sustained C3, but not complete C3. But for the most part it is C1 and C2 to get there. Read the route descriptions and some trip reports.

The one thing I think to know as a beginner is to know your route, because you could easily find yourself in C4 to C5 terrain without realizing you can't climb down.
So, don't go up if you don't think you can climb down.

And as others have said, go do one of the easier 14ers first, for the high altitude experience and to see what your body does at elevation.
It would be a shame to get all the way into Chi Basin and get altitude sickness.

It's not uncommon to be in Chi Basin on a weekend and end up hiking/climbing with others. Definitely happens on the busier peaks.

Have fun, be safe.
Joel