Gladstone East Face?

[PedroCO]

Saw a recent peak conditions report by @rmcpherson. I was planning on doing the "standard" N Ridge route this Saturday, but now I'm thinking I'll do the East Face route. Trying to get a sense of the snow steepness to figure out whether I'll bring Kahtoola micro spikes, Kahtoola KTS Hiking crampons, or real crampons. Any other beta on conditions or general thoughts on this route?

TIA,
-Peter

[supranihilest]

Real crampons.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstat ... cnum=20006

[rmcpherson]

We used spikes and axes, mostly because we forgot to bring the strap-on bails for our crampons and only had the full-auto bails that didn't fit the shoes we brought. If I'd had real crampons, I would have used them. That said, the current snow field is not too steep and when we were there the snow was soft enough to kick step securely. If the snow had been hard we would have either turned back or avoided it. For the most part it's feasible to stay almost entirely on rock at this point with just a couple small snow crossings lower down where it's lower angle. There is no snow on the route once you reach the ridge so all the steepest parts near the summit are snow-free.

By the way, (re: the East Crestone thread) I didn't see a crowbar on the summit although I didn't search for it.

[PedroCO]

Thanks all. Any estimate of the steepest snow angle? Is it above 40 degrees? 45?

[PedroCO]

We used spikes and axes, mostly because we forgot to bring the strap-on bails for our crampons and only had the full-auto bails that didn't fit the shoes we brought. If I'd had real crampons, I would have used them. That said, the current snow field is not too steep and when we were there the snow was soft enough to kick step securely. If the snow had been hard we would have either turned back or avoided it. For the most part it's feasible to stay almost entirely on rock at this point with just a couple small snow crossings lower down where it's lower angle. There is no snow on the route once you reach the ridge so all the steepest parts near the summit are snow-free.

By the way, (re: the East Crestone thread) I didn't see a crowbar on the summit although I didn't search for it.

Thanks a bunch. Do you have a sense of the slope angle at it's steepest? >40? >45?

I may just avoid the snow and deal with the rubble if that's feasible...guessing the snow will be pretty soft based on the hot weather we've been having.

[PedroCO]

Real crampons.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstat ... cnum=20006

Now seeing your trip report note: "This couloir was the spicy part of the day since it is very steep (50 degrees at least) and was full of super hard, icy snow". If that's true (measured?) and the only way up, that may be more than I feel comfortable soloing.

[rmcpherson]

We used spikes and axes, mostly because we forgot to bring the strap-on bails for our crampons and only had the full-auto bails that didn't fit the shoes we brought. If I'd had real crampons, I would have used them. That said, the current snow field is not too steep and when we were there the snow was soft enough to kick step securely. If the snow had been hard we would have either turned back or avoided it. For the most part it's feasible to stay almost entirely on rock at this point with just a couple small snow crossings lower down where it's lower angle. There is no snow on the route once you reach the ridge so all the steepest parts near the summit are snow-free.

By the way, (re: the East Crestone thread) I didn't see a crowbar on the summit although I didn't search for it.

Thanks a bunch. Do you have a sense of the slope angle at it's steepest? >40? >45?

I may just avoid the snow and deal with the rubble if that's feasible...guessing the snow will be pretty soft based on the hot weather we've been having.

Looking at the CalTopo slope angle where there was snow, the angle never exceeds 40 degrees. The steep couloir that supranihilest mentions is completely dry, as is the entire route once you get to the ridge. We found it easier and faster to stay on the snow but you could avoid it almost entirely with small deviations from the typical route. The third photo on my conditions update shows the snow coverage fairly well. Compare it to supranihilest's condition report from 2021 and you can see the conditions are completely different with far less snow.

[Peak200]

100 percent real crampons and an ice axe; its a great route but no way in hell mini spikes will work especially with thaw and then freeze. Have fun