Prepare for 14er Scrambles w/exposure, east coast

[andyjb1232]

Hello,
Let me preface that i searched the forum for other posts related because i would guess this is a relatively common question...

I am looking for east coast class 3/4 scrambles with exposure since i live in northern Virginia. I just completed two easy 14ers and very much enjoyed it, however now i'm planning future hikes and want to get a general understanding of my limits. I've been backpacking since i was 19, I've done a lot of indoor climbing, and a lot of unknown scrambling particularly in the high peaks region of the ADK. I've read that some of those are comparable to the Colorado class 3/4 (except not at altitude). A general google search for east coast class 3 scrambles doesn't return much, or it returns some hikes I've done a bunch before and aren't really anything more than a simple scramble with no exposure (Old Rag comes to mind).

Any helpful suggestions would be welcomed.

Andy

[crestone14ers]

Colorado Scrambles by Dave Cooper. This is a very easy Google search! FORGETABOUT the East Coast ‘scrambles’! You’re in Colorado now, this is an excellent book with classic diverse routes that will test your metal.

[bdloftin77]

I did a google search and these results came up at the top. Not sure of the veracity since it's from an AI summary, but these are worth looking into.

Mount Washington (New Hampshire) - Huntington Ravine Trail: Widely considered the steepest, most dangerous, and highly technical trail on the East Coast. This class 3 scramble ascends a near-vertical glacial headwall that requires negotiating large, loose boulders, crack climbing, and exposed ledges with 500-foot drop-offs.

Mount Katahdin (Maine) - Knife Edge: Connecting Pamola Peak to the true summit (Baxter Peak), this famous class 2 and 3 traverse runs along a jagged ridge. It narrows to just 3-10 feet wide in places with sheer 2,000-foot vertical drops on either side.

Mount Adams (New Hampshire) - King Ravine Trail: Found in the White Mountain National Forest, this route forces hikers through "the Subway"—a maze of house-sized boulders and dark subterranean caves—before popping out to a steep, exposed scramble up the ravine headwall.

Champlain Mountain (Maine) - Precipice Trail: Acadia National Park's most thrilling and challenging climb. It ascends roughly 1,000 feet of sheer granite face, utilizing iron rungs, ladders, and narrow exposed ledges without the safety of handrails in many spots. (Note: Often closed from mid-March to mid-August for peregrine falcon nesting).

Bonticou Crag (New York) - Bonticou Ledges: Located in the Shawangunk Mountains, this is a very steep, open, and exposed class 3 talus scramble up a sheer wall of white conglomerate rock requiring the use of both hands and feet.

EDIT: Found these sites as well. The last one looks like it has a lot of good scrambles in New England.
https://www.outdoors.org/resources/amc- ... ed-routes/
https://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/for ... high-peaks
https://www.newenglandwaterfalls.com/ro ... ngland.php

[mtree]

I grew up on the east coast and have hiked many a trail primarily in the northeast. I can't speak of the Virginia area, but I can say the scrambling in the northeast is usually different than Colorado in that the rock is typically crumbly and unpredictable... not that Colorado mountains don't have their share. Much of it is also below treeline. Another common difference is the wetness with plenty of trees and plants sprinkled in. But there are lots of places where the rock is similar with open and clean scrambling. I've scrambled areas in Connecticut, Vermont, New Hampshire (PREFERRED), NY and NJ. You'll find plenty of quality granite climbs in NH and the surrounding states. I spent most of my hikes in CT, VT, and NH. Its out there. The White Mountains and Franconia Notch area were my favorites!

[justiner]

how do you feel you're currently unprepared?

[jrbren_vt]

Google Adirondack Slide Guide. ADK slides I have personal experience with that I really enjoyed : 1.) Colden Trap Dike (most popular) 2.) Colden east slide (on the other side, I love this one) 3.) Eagle Slide on Giant 4.) NippleTop Slide . Many more beyond my ambition where a rope & knowing how to use it might be a good idea. I never thought much about "class" rating out east, probably because there is always an walk down route to get down if you want ? Scrambling is often just part of the trail. Probably why the google search on class 3 returned very little. But there are tons of class 3-5 to choose from. Aside : Rock character between the Adirondacks, Whites and Greens are very different. Whites are most like the Rockies, just big piles of loose rocks. ADKs have a lot of solid slabs 3.) Greens are very slippery when wet, and they are often wet. ADKs are a separate range from the Appalachians, different geology going on. Justiner asks a very good question. If you want to prepare for the Colorado, come to Colorado. The eastern mountains are a great outing in their own right.

[Ed_Groves]

Mount Washington (New Hampshire) - Huntington Ravine Trail: Widely considered the steepest, most dangerous, and highly technical trail on the East Coast. This class 3 scramble ascends a near-vertical glacial headwall that requires negotiating large, loose boulders, crack climbing, and exposed ledges with 500-foot drop-offs.

Mount Katahdin (Maine) - Knife Edge: Connecting Pamola Peak to the true summit (Baxter Peak), this famous class 2 and 3 traverse runs along a jagged ridge. It narrows to just 3-10 feet wide in places with sheer 2,000-foot vertical drops on either side.

Mount Adams (New Hampshire) - King Ravine Trail: Found in the White Mountain National Forest, this route forces hikers through "the Subway"—a maze of house-sized boulders and dark subterranean caves—before popping out to a steep, exposed scramble up the ravine headwall.

Champlain Mountain (Maine) - Precipice Trail: Acadia National Park's most thrilling and challenging climb. It ascends roughly 1,000 feet of sheer granite face, utilizing iron rungs, ladders, and narrow exposed ledges without the safety of handrails in many spots. (Note: Often closed from mid-March to mid-August for peregrine falcon nesting).

Bonticou Crag (New York) - Bonticou Ledges: Located in the Shawangunk Mountains, this is a very steep, open, and exposed class 3 talus scramble up a sheer wall of white conglomerate rock requiring the use of both hands and feet.

EDIT: Found these sites as well. The last one looks like it has a lot of good scrambles in New England.
https://www.outdoors.org/resources/amc- ... ed-routes/
https://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/for ... high-peaks
https://www.newenglandwaterfalls.com/ro ... ngland.php

These are some good suggestions. I think the Huntington Ravine Trail would be a good one. I differ on the Mt Katahdin trail choice. I did a trip report on the Helon Taylor trail which goes over Pamola and Chimney Peaks, and then crosses the so-called Knife's edge over to Baxter Peak. It is fun scrambling but in my opinion the "knife edge" is a misnomer and there are only a couple of small sections of class 3. The Cathedral Trail is the most difficult and provides the most class 3 scrambling on Katahdin.

[DC703]

As a fellow Northern Virginia guy here, I appreciate this thread. Not a lot of great options here in VA, and while NC/TN have a bunch of 6,000 foot peaks, they're hardly "climbs" and rarely even scrambles.

I'm definitely aiming for Washington via the Huntington Ravine trail, and then hitting Katahdin. Will look at those other options.

Of course, it's really tough to truly replicate or prep for 14er class 3/4 scrambling or climbing out here. It's one thing to scramble on steep terrain here; quite another as a flat lander to do it while struggling with altitude.

[letitbeirie]

I grew up in Reston, it's pretty slim pickings out there.

Old Rag is definitely the most true-to-form class 3(-) scramble in the area but it's not exactly the most demanding route finding and... the secret's out. There's a short but interesting class 4ish scramble from the lower sunset wall to the upper which continues to the summit nobody ever uses (or used to use at any rate: info accurate as of 2015ish) but it's kinda tricky to find.

The best option that I found close by for the "moving over rock" part of scrambling is Billy Goat A on the Maryland side of Great Falls. There's only one part that really gets into class 3 and it's only 50-60' tall but there's probably a half mile to a mile of pretty sustained rock-hopping with nice views of the river.

The closest option with real class 3/4 opportunities with exposure is probably Linville Gorge (NC) - there's a "trail" called lower NC wall that's as close to a western scramble as you'll get on the east coast (south of the Hudson at least). It includes quite a bit of the southeast's, um... "distinctive" brand of bushwhacking though.

[andyjb1232]

I appreciate every single reply here. All extremely helpful or gave me something to think about.

I considered the geological differences between the east coast mountains, but didn't have the education of what that consisted of, so that's very insightful. It seems like everyone is in agreement that being in CO is the best way to prepare for it. I've always loved the idea of getting up to Acadia or White Mountains, but at this point at the advice on here and travel considerations, CO will cost me about the same in time and money.

As for how do I not feel prepared, after some research of sections I've already done in ADK and certain parts of WV, I might be more prepared than I thought. I think my biggest concern is exposure and just not ever having much. I read a lot of the reports and have been watching various youtube videos of people scaling some of the infamous sections, and i suppose the incessant (although necessary) warnings to be prepared, in shape, etc. had me a bit concerned. That's lessened a bit.

I guess i'll be adding Colorado Scrambles by Dave Cooper to my cart to purchase as well.

I've done Old Rag countless times, even having ongoing speed run "fastest times" amongst a select group of friends (still held by myself and a buddy, but its nothing special). I love it, and hopefully that holds true to "class 3" because that would give me a lot more confidence, but that always felt very easy. I've run through great falls but only on the VA side and there isn't much rocks there if i recall correctly, i'm 100% going to check out Billy Goat A on the Maryland side though, that sounds great. Run and scramble! My buddy i just did my 14ers with lives near Linville Gorge (relatively speaking), so i'll check that out too.

Thanks everyone. I will mention for anyone around the mid-Atlantic, I did find a place in WV called Seneca Rocks that looks at least like an exposed scramble, albeit short. And my climbing friend told me about Buzzard Rocks near Front Royale (w/cheese) although the scramble looks pedestrian and he's going there to actual do rock climbing not on trail so take that with a grain of salt.

[DC703]

The best option that I found close by for the "moving over rock" part of scrambling is Billy Goat A on the Maryland side of Great Falls. There's only one part that really gets into class 3 and it's only 50-60' tall but there's probably a half mile to a mile of pretty sustained rock-hopping with nice views of the river.

Yep. I do the Billy Goat A several times a summer. About a mile into the trail, you'll encounter the "traverse". Hardly Blanca-Little Bear, but it's a decent class 3-ish section for a short period of time. The photo in the link here gives a good view of it. Lots of fun, but very brief.

I recommend spicing it up and adding a class 4-ish dimension by scaling the rocks right before the traverse. Instead of following the crack along the traverse, you can choose your own adventure and practice on ascending "off trail". Further into the hike as the trail hugs the river, the scrambling gets a bit sportier. Local rock climbing gyms offering technical climbing on the cliffs on the VA side of the river, too.

https://www.nps.gov/choh/planyourvisit/ ... -trail.htm

I've heard good things about Seneca Rocks, and will probably check that out!

[Veory]

I'm originally from VA as well. Whatever the east coast lacks in scrambling it makes up for in limestone climbing. If you have the time and ability, there's great rock climbing by you. Being an adequate climber will improve confidence on scrambles. Exposure is hard to find indeed though. There was a cool 4th class ridge near Blacksburg but that's a ways from you and not cool enough to be worth the trip.