Humbled on Little Bear - what are my next steps?

[late]

I made an unsuccessful attempt on Little Bear yesterday. I was lucky enough to have a partner who's been up there twice - once through the Hourglass, once on West Ridge Direct + LB-Blanca traverse. We decided to do West Ridge Indirect so he could try something new and I could avoid the rockfall on the standard route. This would have been #20 for me - so far, I've had zero issues as I progressed from early easy peaks to tougher scrambles.

I definitely met my match on LB! We made it all the way to the ridge for the final push through the crux. My partner made a few moves up the ridge and waited for me - I reached it, and stopped dead. It wasn't the exposure - I actually like exposure and find it thrilling - it was the sense that I was about to hit terrain I didn't feel confident I could downclimb. The whole way up from the route to the Hourglass to the ridge itself felt like a major step up from what I'd done before. Pulling out loose holds every 3rd move was a new experience and definitely hit my confidence, but mostly, it was the little quiet voice in my head that kept asking - "Can you downclimb this move?" As soon as I looked at those first few ridge moves, I could tell I'd be in over my head. In years past I'd have forced myself forward, but at age 40, with two kids waiting for me at home, I decided to listen to the voice. Little Bear isn't going anywhere.

My partner was super kind and happily turned back with me, but it was a bummer to rob him of the new experience. It was frustrating to be that close to a summit and bail out, especially with no weather chasing me off. I know I made the right move, but now the question is, how do I re-plan my progression to get to a comfort level where I can tackle WRI? I'd love some perspective and advice to help me return more experienced and mentally prepared.

1. What 14er's or 13ers should I hit next to build my experience and comfort?
2. Any recommendations for good downclimbing practice closer to the Front Range? I live in Fort Collins.
3. I had planned to do Pyramid in August - now I'm unsure if I'm actually ready. Save it for another year?

3rd class routes I've done: Kelso Ridge, Tour de Abyss, Sunlight, Longs, Kit Carson.
Other scrambles: Horsetooth South tooth, Greyrock Weenie route

[Veory]

You have several options really. On one hand, you can gain more experience as you say. Alternatively, you can do one of two things:

1) Go with a partner who will set up short belayed downclimbs (bring a thin 30m rope and a very light rack). This pretty much enables you to get back down anything, provided you have a partner who will then take the gear out and downclimb. I do this with less experienced/comfortable friends from time to time.
2) Traverse to Blanca. This feels like a step up, but you avoid pretty much all downclimbing, with the exception of the short bit off little bear towards the traverse. Sounds crazy, but actually easier IMO, especially if you're comfortable with exposure as you say. Then you get to hike off!

Regardless, I don't think this procludes you from Pyramid, since that terrain is not particularly sustained. Little Bear feels more intense IMO.

[seannunn]

Don't beat yourself up over this. There is nothing wrong with turning around. Living to fight another day is a real thing.
I just did Little Bear via WRI. That was #54 for me and there is no way after 20 I would have been anywhere close to ready for the exposure and climbing difficulty.
Even after 53, it took a very good partner for me to get up and down safely.

You have plenty of options left, and personally I would recommend doing a lot of them before tackling LB again.
The Crestones, Wetterhorn, Mt. Wilson, El Diente, Sunlight, Pyramid and the Bells are all "easier" than Little Bear in terms of the technical difficulty of their easiest routes.
IMO Capitol and Little Bear are tied for the most technically challenging, especially for sustained stretches. Build up to those 2, and I am sure you will do fine.

Sean Nunn
Peculiar, MO

[Monster5]

Aside from SW Ridge and experience desensitizing, I agree with the broader message of V's No. 1. Basic rope skills give you options and ramp up progression.
Basic rope skills are often lacking and misunderstood among CO's uber scramblers, which severely hinders the learning curve for those wishing to sustainably progress beyond. These skills can be introduced in less time than it takes to drive to the trailhead and back.
CMC has budget rope 101 courses from volunteers. CMS has less budget courses from professionals. The forums have hit-or-miss sorts willing to teach for a 6-pack and company. Best would be to book a single day with a guide and really hone in on skills to match the objective (e.g. alpine efficiency through 4th-5.easy terrain).

[kyrawhitworth]

I want to encourage you to still go for your plans on Pyramid. I think you will find the scrambling on that peak much easier.

I honestly hate downclimbing technical terrain as well. It's scary, I don't like facing in and I really need to feel secure when doing so. One thing that has helped me when I need to downclimb something scrambly that I do not like is having my partner go first so that they are below me. That way I can always ask them to spot me if I need it. Sometimes just having someone tell you where you put your feet is a huge help--getting used to facing in instead of the butt scoot is something I'm trying to learn as well.

[The_Ramp]

I appreciate your honesty! That is a tough experience and a difficult decision but you made the smart move.

Update: Pyramid is a blast to climb and I felt protected the whole time. The route-finding is the trickiest part but there are a lot of good user TRs out there that give great detail on unlocking its upper difficulties. I recommend giving it a go!

I too have been putting off LB for years and was encouraged by the new WRI route until I’ve read similar experiences to yours as well as a fatality earlier this season. I’ve actually been debating if the hourglass isn’t the better option as long as I’m first up it and on a quiet climb day (weekday). It’s been stressing me out and I haven’t even gone yet.

Curious the community’s opinion: Is Capitol really a good compare point? I climbed Capitol in 2022 with little to no issue, followed by the other major “hard” peaks. Honestly thought the down-climb of the N Maroon chimney as well as the down climb off NE Crestone were more exhilarating than anything on Capitol.

Thanks all and sorry for a partial hi-jack of this thread.

[daway8]

Great questions and don't feel bad about bailing on your first attempt of the route - this is a very serious peak to be attempting relatively early on in your list.

What other peaks are good prep to form a natural progression?
Wetterhorn
Crestone Peak
Crestone Needle

That was part of my sequence with Little Bear eventually being my Finisher.

Also, sign up at Ascent Studio or another climbing gym in Fort Collins and downclimb the 50ft wall sections instead of rappelling. Sign up for their Intro to Climbing class - these are things I did before trying the harder peaks.

If you're unsure about Pyramid, just wait - it's not going anywhere. Opinions vary widely about Pyramid - I was more uncomfortable in my first climb of Pyramid for that last little bit than any of the now 9 times that I've done Little Bear. Try the progression mentioned above if you want to have more confidence going into it.

As for the other comment about Capitol - I've climbed both Capitol and Little Bear within the last couple weeks - the crux on Little Bear West Ridge Indirect I'd say feels basically about as airy as the Knife Edge on Capitol except that the Knife Edge is flat but on WRI you're climbing up a slope while dealing with similar exposure on a ridge that's only a little wider than the Knife Edge. It can definitely get into your head if you're not used to it.

Don't push yourself too hard - you did right to turn back when you weren't feeling it. Build your skills slowly. Find good partners. Try scrambling in the Flatirons near Boulder. When you're ready, you'll be able to take on this route, as well as much harder ones.

[jfm3]

The southwest ridge route on Little Bear completely avoids both the Hourglass and the climbing difficulties of the west ridge. The traverse from the "South Little Bear" sub-summit to the main summit is exposed in a few places, but it is essentially a flat traverse. I climbed the main summit via the Hourglass and the south summit via the southwest ridge, but have not actually done the traverse between the two. I've looked at it from both sides, and many reports indicate there are only 1 or 2 moves of consequence.

The Hourglass is not so bad....if there is no rockfall. It is an excellent example of a low probability, high consequence area. The steep section through the choke takes maybe 2 minutes to actually climb up and clear to the north. Then it's steep (but not as steep) climbing to the top, with less rockfall potential. Same thing on the way down. The Hourglass has a fearsome reputation because of the rockfall, but most of the ascents of Little Bear are done via that route and there are relatively few rockfall incidents. Having climbed both the Hourglass and the normal route on Mt. Blanc, which crosses the Grand Couloir (often called the Death Couloir), which has its own rockfall issues, they seemed similar to me. Move quickly and keep an attentive ear and you'll probably be fine.

[Gubber13]

Plenty of sage advice above.

Honestly, some days it's just not going to happen. Then you go back again and it's a completely different experience. It may be the mood, the mountain, or something else entirely.

Whatever it is, just go again. Maybe get some more scrambling in first, but you'll be amazed at how straightforward things are when it's the right day.

And kudos for bailing when it didn't feel right. Erin and I have a rule that if one of us is not cool, we turn around. Both used it multiple times.

[daway8]

A word of caution on the SW Ridge - much like there was a lot being made of the benefits of the West Ridge Indirect route (and rightly so) and yet that route has now seen a fatality, I'm concerned that people will oversell the SW Ridge only to one day encounter tragedy on that route too. Let's be realistic about all the routes - none of them are trivial.

Below are comments I copied from an updated assessment of WRI that I posted in another thread:

"Others periodically mention the SW Ridge as safer alternative but the final section between South Little Bear and Little Bear also has a lot of exposure for the climber and a lot of risk of knocking rocks down into the Hourglass, plus it's a notably longer route that leaves you on a ridge for a very long time, which means added danger if there is risk of lightning moving in (the SW Ridge leaves you up high and much more exposed to incoming storms for much longer than any other route). In summary, Little Bear is a dangerous mountain, period. It's up to the climber to choose which of these sets of risks they're willing to accept."

Each of the routes out there has its own set of advantages and disadvantages - WRI is not the best choice for some. The SW Ridge isn't the best choice for others. Some will avoid the Hourglass at all costs, others will take it in stride without much concern. I think the important thing is that people know what sort of risks and advantages/disadvantages each route holds. I've done my part (as have many others) to try to provide as much information as possible on the various routes through a collection of trip reports, posts, etc and hope to eventually help make available even better summaries as I get more experience on other routes.

So please chime in with your best beta but let's remember that climbing mountains is inherently filled with a variety of risks - and some people are better suited by talent, temperment or personal preference for one type of risks vs others.

[Monster5]

The portrayal of the SW Ridge as being in the same risk category as West Ridge variations is counter to my experience. On the SW, the exposed section is shorter, scrambling limited, and route finding significantly easier. Both routes have potential to funnel rockfall on climbers below. Weather-related risks can be managed separately, but dropping elevation quickly is reasonable on class 2.

[climbnowworklater]

The portrayal of the SW Ridge as being in the same risk category as West Ridge variations is counter to my experience. On the SW, the exposed section is shorter, scrambling limited, and route finding significantly easier. Both routes have potential to funnel rockfall on climbers below. Weather-related risks can be managed separately, but dropping elevation quickly is reasonable on class 2.

100% monster.
I did sw ridge and monster is correct. It is the easiest way up LB

Also, as a rock climber I should say, building anchors on already loose rock is a bad idea. The biggest problem with ropes on 14ers is the ability to find quality Rock to build anchors in. If you can't build an anchor, the rope is worthless.