Orizaba advice

[lukedog]

It looks like it has been a while since there was discussion of Orizaba. I'm looking for relatively recent experiences and info as I'm planning to hit Orizaba during the next year, likely this winter. I'm currently leaning toward using the local Servimont group for logistics and a guide. I'll likely be solo. I'm currently aiming for a trip that would take me up Izta as the primary acclimatization hike, though I think there would be a few other, shorter such hikes.

Any info from the last few years supporting use of Servimont or suggesting I should consider another company?

Any strong suggestions about my itinerary?

I may have questions about gear and such later, but I'm not quite there yet. I appreciate any info that would help me plan the trip more successfully - thank you.

[Scott P]

Sounds like a solid plan but if you can, I'd add some "lower" peaks (Ajusco, Nevado Toluca, La Malinche, or Cofre de Peote, etc.) before going to Izta.

I haven't used guides for those peaks so don't have personal experience with Servimont but they do have a solid reputation.

Don't miss the other sites in the region either, such as the Archeological Musuem, caves, rafting, monarch reserve, waterfalls, etc. I'd highly recommend the area around Xico after the volcanoes.

Have a great trip!

[skyrme17]

I would advise doing one lower peak before Iztaccihuatl, which is over 17,000 ft in elevation. I found it more strenuous than Pico de Orizaba because of the ups and downs between the different summits. Malinche has nice views of Popocatépetl and Izta. I used Nomada (https://nomadamexico.org/), and would recommend them.

[ColoNativeGal]

I used Nomada as well. They are awesome. I did the same itinerary you listed and was fine, minus the GI issues that forced me to turn around at 15,200 on Orizaba. It depends on where you're coming from. Are you coming from Colorado or somewhere else? I highly recommend as much altitude training as possible before you go. Easy in Colorado, harder if not. If you're not coming from Colorado, then I would recommend a warm up before Izta. Don't skip the acclimatization, it really makes all the difference. I also found Izta to be difficult. You definitely want a rest day or two before moving on to Orizaba.

I went the first part of November. I had some friends that went last year mid November and had a nasty storm and got turned around. Definitely check weather, etc. The guiding company can help with that.

Hope this helps. Happy to answer gear questions as you get closer.

[Ptglhs]

The American based guide companies are more expensive but they'll help you out more with the logistics. Mountain Madness was well recommended for their prep and itinerary. Most of them have a climatization hike of malinche and sometimes they will also do the 17,000 ft one that talk to text can never spell correctly.
Definitely acclimate before going. Minimum of Malinche, reat day, drive to the hut, maybe hike up to base of Jamapa and back before a summit push. If you go guided they'll outline all this.

[lukedog]

Some good info so far. I appreciate it.

I am trying to focus on vetting or changing the guide service direction at this point. I am in CO, have summited all the 14ers (about 90, including repeats) and regularly climb/hike up high, so will be ready. I may be back here asking for training, prep and gear tips in the fall.

Yes, I would expect to do another lower summit or two (I see Malinche as part of many itineraries) prior to Izta and Orizaba. It is helpful to know folks found Izta to be significant and challenging. If so, I wonder if it is worth doing, or if it is better to take it a bit easier on those prep hikes/climbs if Orizaba is my main objective.

Thanks for the continued sharing of experiences, especially with guide services and general itinerary to book.

[skyrme17]

That really depends on the person, and the ability to acclimatize. La Malinche is ~14,600', Izta is ~17,100' and Pico de Orizaba is close to 18,500'. Most guiding companies use an outfitter in Tlachichuca (9,700') which provides transportation to Orizaba's base camp (14,000'). There is a lot of elevation change over a relatively short time, so it's helpful to give yourself more opportunity to acclimatize, unless you're one of the lucky ones who acclimatize very easily and in a short time.

[angry]

I used explore share for logistics, you don't need a guide if you are confident in your abilities. I didn't do any other hikes to acclimate there.
This was my itinerary in 2023:
Day 1 – DEN>MEX walk around the city and eat all the tacos
Day 2 – Pick up from hotel and drop off at Izta TH, set up camp
Day 3 – Summit Izta and drop off back in the city
Day 4 – Frida Kahlo museum, more tacos and rest
Day 5 – Pick up and drop off at Orizaba TH, stayed in the hut
Day 6 – Summit Orizaba, drop off at airport MEX>DEN

I opted to go back to the city because I think it has the best food in Mexico but you could just stay in Puebla after Izta. If you are in CO you could do some 13er/14er before you fly out. If you are coming from lower elevation, my couch to summit plan probably wouldn't work for you. Of the two, I thought Izta was more interesting and had better views.

[desertdog]

Hi

Orizaba is fun. I did it twice. Once guided (my first high altitude climb) and once with a friend.

A couple of thoughts...

Fly into Puebla, rather than Mexico City. United has a good flight out of Houston.

Bring a tent rather than stay in the hut. Its crowded, loud, and there will be mice running over your face.

Its not hard, but its high. Give yourself some extra time to acclimate. I saw so many people in misery because they tried to rush it and some bailed. My last trip I went up to 15.5K on Ixta (note we did not summit on this trip due to conditions, however I have climbed it and it is worth climbing), slept at the Ixta TH 14K or so, Spent a full day in town, spent a full day / two nights at Orizaba basecamp and went up to 15K, Second morning we went to the summit.

Understand the up to date conditions for when you are climbing. Some people assume its always a snow walk up. Occasionally, it gets icy and is pretty full on. People have died.

Research your logistics provider (or guide if you need one). There are good ones and some scammers. I have a great logistics guy that I used on my last trip. If you want to connect with him message me.

Have fun!

[nyker]

The main challenges for the Mexican volcanoes trip is altitude and language barrier and to some extent but easier to solve transportation.

Since you're in CO and can get to 14k pretty easy you're covered better than most already with fitness and acclimatizing. Do another local peak or two beforehand that's 15-16k before Itza.

If you speak reasonable Spanish just book everything yourself. If you don't speak Spanish but comfortable with everything else then go with the local logistics operators above and climb yourself.

You could start hiking Orizaba at 10k and have another day to acclimatize and then don't need a 4x4, otherwise you'll need to drive (or hire a driver) to 13k and start from there and plan for the return trip to where you're staying.

If you're sorted with the start strategy/transport, acclimatize well, good with the language barrier and comfortable with axe and crampons on moderately steep sustained ice, and have a strategy if something goes wrong at 18k, you don't need a guide. If no to the above points, then hire a local guide. A local guide will be a fraction of a US guiding outfit but offer less frills.

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[alexhenes]

https://www.merelyafleshwound.com/mount ... d/orizaba/

[Ssgustafson]

Strongly recommend Orizaba Mountain Guides in San Miguel Zoapan. Roberto "Oso" Flores is the owner and a legendary mountaineer and guide. They are literally located at the end of the paved road before heading up the 4x4 road to the refugio. We acclimatized on La Malinche as many suggest above, which was a terrific day. If you are a reasonably experienced hiker with some experience on glacier, there is little need IMO to hire a guide for Orizaba. While there are always risks at altitude on steep snow that you need to be ready for, you will part of a long conga line of climbers, so you cant really get lost. Route-finding in the Labyrinth is overhyped IMO, and the crevasse risk is low on the glacier. Prices are very reasonable and the logistics support they provide - including a well outfitted base camp on Orizaba - are top notch!