How to get into winter 14ers

[Realexplorer420]

I want to do some basic winter 14er climbing this year I have no real experience outside of summer though, where should I start?


prolly a dumb question thanks for your time any ways mate

[AndrewJCraigie]

https://www.14ers.com/winter-14ers-for-beginners

[LifeIsGood]

This forum can be invaluable for certain types of questions. In your situation, perhaps some information can be presented that is not necessarily just common sense.

For example, you may be surprised at how much extra weight you are carrying in winter/ winter conditions, so this means that it will take longer than usual to walk anywhere, even if you are not in deep snow.

Snowshoes are generally considered essential, except for well-traveled routes, that may have an established trench. But beware, trusting someone else’s broken path can sometimes be a mistake (like passing underneath the Kelso avalanche slope on the way to Grays Peak, which is otherwise considered to be not very dangerous).

Snowshoeing can be done without poles, but they will make it much easier.

For extremely cold temperatures, I wear a miniature fanny-pack on my belly, for phone, headlamp, etc. (but beware, calling it a fanny-pack in certain parts of the world can result in being laughed at, as I have been, and when I asked why, I was informed that fanny means vagina in British English, and that I should call it a bum bag, but that too sounds ridiculous, so I have no advice on this).

Practice on some lower peaks, and places not so far from your car!

[daway8]

The linked page is an excellent place to start. A few things I'll add emphasis to:

1) Come to the Winter Welcomer (usually around Halloween). This event exists specifically for the purpose of helping people get into winter peaks safely (before winter sets in for real).

2) Layers, layers, layers. A proper layering scheme is essential in winter - too hot and you'll sweat followed by freezing as soon as wind hits you. Too cold... well, you can figure that one out... No exposed skin on the coldest days.

3) Watch the wind. People often neglect to pay attention to wind forecast in winter, but windchill can completely ruin your day in winter.

4) Avalanche education. Check out Know Before You Go and other free resources online. Download and use the CAIC avy forecast app and learn how to spot safe ridge routes.

5) Start small. Lots of unexpected variables in winter. Start with short hikes on a bluebird day after the first few snows of the year have hit. Then gradually do longer days in tougher conditions. Beware of whiteouts, especially above treeline.

[Dave B]

A good place to start is to linger on the trip reports tab on this site and on the FB 14ers group and make sure to tell anyone claiming a later Nov or early Dec "winter ascent" isn't really a winter ascent because winter doesn't officially start until Dec 21st at 2:50p MST.

[mtree]

I learned how to hike 14ers in winter conditions the hard way. Luckily, no serious injuries. My first hike was Quandary. I recall getting back to my car and when I took off my jacket (winter coat) it was SOAKED! Dripping sweat soaked. Lesson #1; layers, layers, layers! I learned lesson #2 hiking Grays when my water froze, so insulate your water supply. While attempting Sherman I learned to check for trailhead conditions BEFORE you go. I got lucky and managed to get out without stranding my vehicle. Others did not. And there's the revelation on Snitkau's ridge that whiteout conditions can happen WITHOUT a snowstorm! That's when I dug into my pack to discover I had some old, scratched goggles and a balaclava in the bottom. Total game changer. Lesson #3 learned; protect skin from wind... and don't neglect eyes!

So, don't do what I did. Ask questions and learn from others. I have no avalanche training other than the basics. I simply stay away from avalanche prone areas. Established routes only. There's a lot you'll learn from experience and what works for someone else may not work for you. You'll figure out your gear over time. The margin for error in winter is very slim so take extra caution. Let someone know where you're going and when you expect to return. And yeah. Start small.

[jfm3]

My recommendation: go skiing in a place where you can see 14ers covered in snow. Look at them and think "wow that's nice." Then keep skiing. Ha!

Everything takes longer in the winter. Cold and wind make movements slower. There is way more gear to haul/carry. Roads are closed miles below the summer trailheads, and must be traversed with skis or snowshoes. Daylight is much shorter, which means more time in the dark, which slows things down even in the middle of the summer.

[two lunches]

My recommendation: go skiing in a place where you can see 14ers covered in snow. Look at them and think "wow that's nice." Then keep skiing. Ha!

i actually really like this advice

[jrbren_vt]

Aside from the link given above by Andrew, I would recommend doing some winter hikes that aren't 14ers. Something that barely peaks above tree line where retreat is easy and relatively quick. You don't say where you live so not sure what is available to you. In Colorado that would be 12ers with treeline between 11.5K-12K. Get some practical experience dealing with the cold, wind, associated gear. Also I avoid super popular hikes in the non snow seasons, I seek them out in the snow season because I am too lazy to break trail. And of course get avalanche educated, but I think the link covers that. Fair disclosure: I don't do 14ers in winter, too risk averse. I do 12ers once in a while, mainly lower peaks, with a handful of "go to" peaks.

[Ptglhs]

Figure out how you're going to keep liquids liquid. I used a camel back under my insulating lanyers and wear a pack over it. I also blow back the liquid so the line doesn't freeze.

Look at the gear list on guided expeditions for Rainier or denali. The clothing/snowshoes/poles they recommend are good.

Not trying to take credit for what someone else suggested but it would probably be a good idea for you to start lower and hike to 12k, just over treeline. "Enjoy" the wind. You willing to put up with that for 5 hours? Then continue.

Really look at the winter trailheads. With the exception of quandary and La Plata everything is further back. So you're going longer, carrying more weight, moving more slowly because of the snow, and there's significantly less daylight. Type 2 fun for sure. Have batteries close to you for a headlamp in case you don't get back to your car til 7. Bring a foam pad. It coild save your life if you get stuck overnight.

[Realexplorer420]

Thanks for all the help guys

[globreal]

Please start by taking avalanche awareness courses!
We don’t want you to become a statistic.

I want to do some basic winter 14er climbing this year I have no real experience outside of summer though, where should I start?


prolly a dumb question thanks for your time any ways mate