North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

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BillMiddlebrook
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North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

This is a perfect example of why I periodically reclimb 14er routes, looking for changes, etc. Recently, I read more than one post about the difficulty in the crux chimney on North Maroon. I didn't think much about it but knew it was time to repeat North this summer, so I'd pay attention through there. Well, sure enough, something has changed since 2023 when I was last there. The lower half of the chimney is awkward to climb into, but not too bad. The upper exit has always been more difficult, but previously there was a rock on the large step in the middle. I remember it- about 18-24" high and made for a good step to help with the exit. It's gone.

Is it missed? Yes. I was there a couple of days ago and when I was climbing out of the chimney, I mentioned to my partner that this seems more difficult than previous climbs. At 5'7", I am a bit short. And I'm getting old. Still, it seemed more difficult. Instead of being able to stand on that rock and climb directly out, I ended up turning left a bit, angling up the cracks in the gray/green rock on the left side of the chimney, then pulling myself over and onto the slab at the top left. Awkward, but I still felt it was Class 4. On the descent, I did what I've always done. I faced inward, held onto the platform holds and hung my body over, sliding down until I could touch the large step where the rock used to be. It worked but I did have to place my left foot on a hold to the left before I could get my right down to the large step. Again, the rock was missed.

If anyone else has thoughts on this issue specifically, or has used a Class 3 alternate way around by traversing right along the base of the Rock Band, I'd like to hear about it. I know there is another option, but I've just always used the chimney up and down.

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Image

From even further back in time...
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Bummer..
Image
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by bdloftin77 »

No info to offer, but I agree that putting up some detail and pictures of the class 3 workaround would be good!
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by PJ88 »

I was up there last summer and took the chimney up without any issues even though I'm not the tallest. This was my first time up there so I have nothing else to compare it to. I decided to see what the class 3 workaround looked like out of curiosity and ended up taking that down. Of course I don't have a track from that day when it would actually be useful. It is a short walk around to the right of the chimney. There was actually a rope at the top of this section, which is funny because you absolutely do not need it. Pretty easy class 3 all the way.

Sorry - I couldn't get the view from below to rotate for the life of me.
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

Here you go:
22.jpg
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

bdloftin77 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 18, 2026 7:21 am No info to offer, but I agree that putting up some detail and pictures of the class 3 workaround would be good!
Right. Hopefully someone has one that shows that spot in a broader sense, so I could make it easy to see when approaching the rock wall.
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

PJ88 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 18, 2026 7:26 am I was up there last summer and took the chimney up without any issues even though I'm not the tallest. This was my first time up there so I have nothing else to compare it to. I decided to see what the class 3 workaround looked like out of curiosity and ended up taking that down. Of course I don't have a track from that day when it would actually be useful. It is a short walk around to the right of the chimney. There was actually a rope at the top of this section, which is funny because you absolutely do not need it. Pretty easy class 3 all the way.
Good stuff. On your descent, did you walk along the top of the rock band to reach that rope and Class 3 section? Or did you angle down through the talus from higher up?
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by PJ88 »

BillMiddlebrook wrote: ↑Tue Aug 18, 2026 7:36 am
PJ88 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 18, 2026 7:26 am I was up there last summer and took the chimney up without any issues even though I'm not the tallest. This was my first time up there so I have nothing else to compare it to. I decided to see what the class 3 workaround looked like out of curiosity and ended up taking that down. Of course I don't have a track from that day when it would actually be useful. It is a short walk around to the right of the chimney. There was actually a rope at the top of this section, which is funny because you absolutely do not need it. Pretty easy class 3 all the way.
Good stuff. On your descent, did you walk along the top of the rock band to reach that rope and Class 3 section? Or did you angle down through the talus from higher up?
I walked along the top of that rock band from about the point where you descend the chimney to see if anything stood out and then, boom, came across that area. Once at the bottom you just walk around back to where the bottom of the chimney is. Looking back at these pictures I think I see a faint trail down there too.
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

Do you happen to have a broader look at it after you exited and started walking back toward the east? If not, can you identify it's location in this photo:

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Or this one, if it's even further right (west):
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by PJ88 »

No, those are the only pictures I have and identifying it in that photo would just be a guess at best.
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

PJ88 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 18, 2026 8:38 am No, those are the only pictures I have and identifying it in that photo would just be a guess at best.
No problem at all! Thanks so much. I'm sure someone will have it, so I don't have to go back up there so soon. lol
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by sfreytag »

I don't have any pictures of the bypass but do have the GPX track, which I just uploaded to the GPX Library. Here is a snippet of it. You can see by the scale its maybe 200' away (West) from the chimney. Took the chimney up but it was really wet from the previous day's rain and it felt sketchy to downclimb so I took the bypass down. It was intuitive to find and easy climbing. Pretty much follow the rock band west until you find the first spot that is easily climbable.
Bypass.jpg
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Re: North Maroon: Lost, 1 Rock

Post by BillMiddlebrook »

^That helps, thank you
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