1st ascent of Jonorana

[mtnkub]

To our knowledge, we made the first reported ascent of Nevado Jonorana (18,219ft / 5553m), on Tue Aug 11 2026, with a team composed of Jackie Thorburn and 14ers.com members athorburn (Andrew Thorburn) and myself (Ulli Bayer), led by John Biggar (of Andes.org.uk). Jonorana is also spelled Jonorane, but differs from Cunurana (~17,782ft / 5420m; in the La Raya range), which was climbed in 1957. (Adding to the confusion, the spelling Khunurana appears to be used for either Jonorana or Cunurana in different contexts).

Jonorana is glaciated and likely the highest peak of the southern Vilcanota range (i.e. the part south of the Quelccaya icecap) in Peru. John first noticed it from the south shores of Laguna Sibinacocha, a spot from where you have a dramatic view of all five 6000m peaks of the Vilcanota proper; in the other direction, you see the Quelccaya ice cap and -a little further away- another ice capped mountain, which turns out to be the Jonorana massive (although the peaks you actually see are Pumanota and Pumanota Norte). Subsequent extensive research by John online and in older journal articles failed to identify any evidence of previous ascents.

Our route followed the north ridge, first on its east side; then, on the glacier, on its west side. The route finding on the glacier was a bit tricky (not made easier by the fact that it was the 2nd worst weather day of the expedition, shrouding the summit in clouds), but after running into two dead ends (one of which still allowed us to tag the north summit that is likely only ~30ft lower), we eventually made it to the main summit. The views were less than excellent, and we could barely see a small lake ~1800ft below us towards the south.

Initially, we intended to use the south ridge, but this was quickly ruled out during our first scouting/acclimatization hike in the area. While a different route on the south side might work (via a glacier leading to the low point of the ridge toward Jatuncucho), we decided that an approach from the north had a better chance.

Our acclimatization hikes included Conatira (~17,060ft; easy hill walk, on Aug 5); Sachapata (~17,680ft; mainly easy class 3 on excellent rock with a somewhat exposed class 4/5.easy summit block, on Aug 6); Cerro Cayo Orjo (~17,200ft; short hike from the road, but unclear which bump is the actual summit, on Aug 7); and Quenamari (also ~17,200ft; but much longer with one brief class 3 step with otherwise nice but slightly complicated class 2 route gaining the north ridge from the pass, on Aug 8 ). Conatira and Sachapata also had no previously recorded ascents (to our knowledge) but were clearly/likely previously climbed by locals, with many large elaborate cairns on the summit ridge of Conatira and a small shrine below the summit block of Sachapata (on which we left a small cairn). Quenamari has only one previously recorded ascent (over 20 years earlier), but is frequented by locals, with numerous cairns and shrines.

Three possibly/likely unclimbed peaks remain in the area (some of which had been secondary targets for us). Jatuncucho is a rocky subsummit between Jonorana and Pomanota. Possible routes on Jarupata (between Conatira and Sachapata) looked unpleasant and loose. For the imposing Nevado Quellma (north of Sachapata), satellite images and maps had suggested possible weaknesses on its south ridge, but the actual looks instead suggested 5.8-5.10 in mixed terrain followed by a large overhanging summit block (likely making the dry north ridge a more feasible route at a similar grade).

[Scott P]

Nice!

[bdloftin77]

Pretty cool! Sachapata sounds like a fun one.

[mtnkub]

Nice!

Thank you Scott! (Also for the Ampato recommendations; unfortunately, i didn't make that one, due to a highly unseasonable storm on my designated climbing day).

Pretty cool! Sachapata sounds like a fun one.

Thanks! Yeah, if in CO, Sachapata would be my favorite 14er and a crowd pleaser. It is also pretty good looking (left), although not quite as good as the much harder Quellma (right).

[Veory]

Sick!

[desertdog]

Really cool! Congrats! Love that area!

[daway8]

Very cool - it gives a whole new flavor of adventure when you take on a peak without any prior beta!