Chicago Basin / Eolus, Sunlight, Windom

[jwiszyns]

Live out in Montrose, was hoping to see if I can sneak in Chicago Basin including Eolus, Sunlight, Windom summits Sat / Sunday. Weather is wet and snowy this week, hoping it clears up by the weekend and accumulation doesnt stay around for too long at +13k feet.

Has anyone summited this late in season or any suggestions if it may be manageable assuming the weather holds as predicted? Have summited 49/53 14ers.

[nyker]

With those absolute figures and this time of year, it's somewhat of a crapshoot if conditions will be good or not higher up, which is really where you care on those peaks. You might get a little wet hiking in and setting up camp, but that's not the issue. It's conditions higher up early in the morning either day that you care about. Early season snow can be a pain to climb through when dusted on steep rocks making it slick, hiding cracks/crevices that your foot can get wedged in. Crampons and an axe likely won't help.

Since you live nearby and don't need to rely on a flight and long drive/hotel expense, give it a try. You can hike in set up camp and then play it by ear in the morning each day, managing your expectations that it might just not be a good time to climb and be ok if you need to turn around, but it's not a short hike in as you know.

As a comparison, there was some snow when we did El Diente and Wilson (also September) above 10k, two peaks with similar effort and terrain type as Chi Basin, but no snow below say 11k. By the time we climbed higher with the sun out, the snow was generally fine to move through as long as we moved with care, but would not have been the conditions you want to do a speed climb in. Encountering the same conditions on Capitol (Also September), we turned around twice. If it was a Sawatch peak, I probably wouldn't adjust plans too much if at all.

One thing to note: That forecast you posted is for an elevation of 10,341ft; with the expected lows in the low 30s at 10k, assume it will be in the high 20s at 13k, so that probably changes the percentage probability that will be snow to a higher % and probably a little higher accumulation above what's listed there so consider that.

[jwiszyns]

Thanks, I am monitoring the weather today, the ski cams at Purgatory / Telluride to see if there is an accumulation in the areas, and I can see mount Sneffels from my house - seeing if the top turns white. Will probably make the call this evening, knowing if we do go there is a decent chance we won't be able to summit.

I am still studying the standard routes, are there any specific sections or moves along the way you would urge caution on? As the routes are south facing hopeful the sun will help break things down during the day Saturday.

- Jason

[RhodoRose]

I am still studying the standard routes, are there any specific sections or moves along the way you would urge caution on?

Wet rocks anywhere can be slick but in particular the catwalk and ledges on Eolus and boulders on Windom come to mind. Not sure it's a good idea to try for the ramp and summit rock on Sunlight, if they're wet or icy and you're not attached to a rope. Maybe just get to the geological marker and call it close enough, which is what most people do, anyway.

[Eli Boardman]

Maybe just get to the geological marker and call it close enough, which is what most people do, anyway.

bait.gif